Monthly Archives: March 2014

Please Remove Your Shoes

31 Monday Mar 2014

Posted by in From the journals, Ginger + Buddy, the kitchen

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20140331-195149.jpgCrispy halibut with raw beet, apple, cabbage slaw

When Buddy came to visit us with his Foster Mom, Michelle, three years ago, he walked right in as if he had always lived here. He came in the door, alongside Sophie (a shitzu who was also sadly looking for a home), said his proper hello then proceeded to make a beeline straight to the living room where he confidently climbed into Gingers “raft” (code name for her living room bed). Ginger, had no reaction. This was a strong indication that he may, in fact, be here to stay.

To give a little context to the significance of this move, I need to let you know that Ginger was not on board with our decision to provide her with a little brother. In fact, she had no idea that this was a real consideration. Ginger was ten years old at the time and had always been the center of attention. Ginger is far more interested in the people we meet than their dogs and through her actions around the other dogs, she was very clear about her desire to be an only child. Ginger is a little territorial. She also doesn’t like to share.

So when Buddy made himself at home in her very special bed, Tom and I both looked at each other with wide eyes and took a deep breath. Then… nothing happened. We were elated and at the same time, quite surprised.

Our next step, as Michelle suggested, was to take them for a walk together. Buddy plowed forward like a bull dog, hind feet propelling so fast I thought he might do a summersault. Ginger competitively tried to get ahead but they both ended up strolling together, side-by-side. They tromped through the wet grass at the park and sniffed everything along the way, including each other. It was still wet out from the rain and the mud coated their little paws making patterns on the sidewalk as they marched onward.

When we returned home, Tom took Buddy and I took Ginger, into our arms and carried them to the back door to wipe their feet with the paw towel. Michelle was puzzled by this and said, “Oh, they have to wipe their feet?”, as if this might break the deal.

We don’t have many rules in this house, but one that we make everyone abide by is, “please remove your shoes”. We even provide guest slippers in a bin next to our door, yet they rarely ever get worn. Most people don’t have a problem with this rule, but it is obvious that not all people have this one. Buddy doesn’t like the rule. He likes everything about living here but continues to try and wear his dirty shoes in the house. When I open the door from the backyard to let him in, he sheepishly looks up at me and hesitates when he sees the towel in my hand. I can see his eyes darting to and fro, looking for an alternate route. He usually takes two steps back and requires a little coaxing to come inside (screen door practically shutting closed and thwacking him on the butt).

I take his tiny paws, one at a time and gently brush the towel back and forth to remove the dirt then give a little squeeze to dry the moisture. The second I release his fourth paw, he catapults out of my hands as if he were a wind-up toy, heading toward the treat jar.

Balanced nutrition and healthy foods are a key to building a stronger body. The first time I took Buddy’s little paws in my hands, they were so thin and frail, I feared I would snap them in two. Just this morning, I couldn’t help but notice that his feet felt big and his legs felt sturdy. The little twigs that used to be in their place have grown strong and healthy and a diet rich in nutrients, devoid of chemicals and fillers have played a big part.

Needless to say, he did stay and even Ginger thinks he is kind of swell (although won’t admit it). So with a spring in their step and all shoes removed, Buddy and Ginger join us at the table for our family dinner, halibut tonight.

Crisp halibut over raw beet, apple, cabbage & blue cheese slaw with mint aioli
Serves 2 plus enough for two small pups

As usual, Buddy and Ginger get their fish cooked in foil, sans seasoning and they take their slaw undressed, minus onion. You can use any dense white fish, or even salmon, instead of halibut. I like using golden beets in the Springtime and red beets closer to Fall.

INGREDIENTS (for slaw)

2 cups shredded napa cabbage
2 small or 1 medium golden beet, cleaned & peeled
1/2 red apple, cored, sliced and julienned (squeeze lemon juice over to keep them from turning color)
2 green onions, sliced
Juice of 1/2 lemon
2 TB mint aioli (recipe to follow)
1 oz. good quality blue cheese, crumbled (I used Rogue Creamery Reserve)
Sea salt & freshly ground pepper to taste

PREPARE (the slaw)

Parboil the peeled beet. Slice the beet very thin (helps to use a mandolin). Set aside six slices for garnish.

Mix together the cabbage, beets and onion in a medium bowl. Squeeze in the lemon juice and sprinkle over a pinch or two of sea salt

Toss in the aioli and mix well. Add the blue cheese, carefully mixing it in.

Season to taste and let rest at room temperature as you cook the fish.

INGREDIENTS (for the mint aioli)

1 TB rice wine vinegar
1 TB lime juice
1/2 tsp Thai hot sauce
1/2 tsp sugar
Pinch of sea salt
1 TB chopped shallot
1 egg yolk
6 TB peanut oil
1 TB hazelnut oil
1/4 cup packed fresh mint

PREPARE

Process the the vinegar, lime juice, hot sauce, sugar, shallot and yolk in a food processor. Slowly add in the oil until emulsified. Add the fresh mint and process until smooth.

INGREDIENTS (for the fish)

3/4 – 1 lb fresh halibut fillet, skin removed and cut into 2 pieces
Sea salt and pepper to season
1/4 cup white whole wheat flour (or all purpose)
1/4 tsp smoked paprika
1 egg, lightly beaten (or spanked ever-so slightly)
1/2 cup panko

COOK (the fish)

I don’t typically measure out the flour or panko, so don’t get too hung up on the quantities listed above.

In addition to lightly seasoning the halibut with salt & pepper, I also lightly season the flour with the addition of smoked paprika.

Rinse and pat dry the fish (friendly-like). If you have a small dog(s), consider trimming the ends of the fish off to cook in foil for them (trust me, they will love you even more if that’s possible).

Dust the fish (no feathers necessary) with the seasoned flour then dip it into the egg letting the excess drip off. Press the fish into the panko on each side.

Heat a pan until hot and add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Add the fish and let cook, undisturbed until it has formed a nice brown crust. Flip it over and cook through a few minutes more, depending on it’s thickness. If you like, you can transfer the pan to a 375 degree oven once it is flipped and continue cooking it in the oven.

TO SERVE

Put three beet slices down on each plate. Put a mound of slaw in the center and top with a fillet of halibut. Serve with a small bowl of aioli alongside. Alternately, you could drizzle some sauce on the plate before you put down the beets. A sprig of mint makes a nice garnish.

20140331-204953.jpgFriends without dirty shoes (on a clean-ish floor); paws washed for dinner.

Since he’s not here…

28 Friday Mar 2014

Posted by in the kitchen

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To this day, calamari continues to remain on Tom’s, “I really won’t eat that” list (I’m working on him though). It was actually the first (of only a few) things that I have cooked for him that he actually wouldn’t/couldn’t eat. Full disclosure: this particular calamari steak turned out so badly, we both had to throw it away. I later found out that he strongly dislikes squid, so it already had a black mark (heh, heh) against it, however, on our first date, he managed to choke down, without mention or commentary, the other four foods that he strongly disliked (I, of course, happened to make them all in one dinner, lucky Tom). To think, I was quite pleased with myself for cooking him, what at the time, was my most impressive meal. It was what I cooked myself when I wanted to be fancy. It also happened to include four of my favorite things: lamb, eggplant, mushrooms and legumes. Well, they do say opposites attract.

That was over twenty-one years ago and I am much better at cooking calamari now, and cooking in general. I think Tom is (secretly) starting to like squid, but baby steps are in order here. [Tom here, uh, Hell no] I would never subject him to another dinner of calamari doré, so I will happily take my squid to Fiesta Friday this week but I won’t say “more for us”, instead I’ll say “since he’s not here!”

Simple Sautéd Calamari with garlic, olives & tomato

The first time I was able to cook fresh squid (not previously frozen), it was a game changer. Hard to come by, but I highly recommend it if you find some.

INGREDIENTS

1/2 lb squid (calamari) (both tentacles and tubes)
1-2 TB olive oil and a pad of butter
1 small tomato, diced
3 good quality olives of your choice, pitted, sliced or chopped
2-3 TB fresh courtly chopped Italian parsley

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COOK

Rinse and drain the calamari tubes and tentacles; dry with paper towels. Season the calamari with sea salt and pepper. To a hot sauté pan, drizzle in some olive oil. Throw in the chopped garlic followed by the calamari, toss once or twice and quickly throw in a handful of diced tomatoes, good-quality olives cut in pieces and chopped, fresh parsley (if you like, melting a little butter in is nice too). Then squeeze in juice from a lemon wedge and voila – a quick and tasty first course. Serve with a slice of grilled bread.

Come on over to Angie’s place for Fiesta Friday to check out all the other great food and weekend inspiration.

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The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

25 Tuesday Mar 2014

Posted by in Eating Out

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Favorite weekday breakfast recipe…hmmmm. Does anyone actually have time to make a recipe for breakfast during the week? I do need to eat breakfast because without it, I am grumpy, and hungry. I like to reserve eggs for the weekend, unless they are hard boiled, in which case I will eat one with sea salt and pepper. I think a slice of rosemary toast, with butter and raspberry jam is divine, but that’s not really a recipe, now is it?

Mid-week breakfast – my recipe
Serves 1
Disclaimer: Written for office commuters. Can be adapted easily in the stay at home/home office kitchen by simply ignoring the “to go” jargon and just implementing at home. The broiler is a fine substitute for a toaster oven (in fact, the toaster oven is actually the substitute for the broiler in the commuter world).

Flailing about in the morning of a weekday, having barely shaken off dinner from the night before, I find a pack-and-go kind of breakfast to be the best choice. In my case, often, it is the only choice. I don’t always (okay, rarely) make lunch in the evening since I spend my time making dinner, however, I do need to have something for breakfast and if it means spending 5 minutes less putting on eyeshadow or ironing my top, well, priorities and all. 5 minutes is like 5 cents was to buy a gum ball once, and time being precious these days (all days really), I pack it and tackle it at work (multi-tasking, of course).

INGREDIENTS

Alarm clock – set 5 minutes earlier than the 20 minute “snooze” button.
Good black coffee, pre-set to go off without any effort (Tom always comes through).
Pantry and fridge stocked with healthy ingredients (such as fruit, yogurt, juice, cheese and grains).
A magic bullet or good blender.
Dogs that do their business without lolly-gagging.
Small bowls, cups and baggies “to go”.
The ability and inhibition to throw things together quickly (while half-asleep) and finish assembling at the office to eat while reading email.
An office that has a toaster oven, a microwave and white porcelain plates.

INSTRUCTIONS

“Don’t sweat the small stuff”. “Variety is the spice of life”. “Breakfast is the most important meal of the day”. Eat well, work smart and remember the important stuff!

A few of my favorites:

THE GOOD
Avocado half with sea salt and citrus

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This might be one of the easiest and most perfect breakfasts for someone like me on a weekday in that, it is self contained, creates it’s own bowl, is healthy, is filling and is an avocado (which might actually be one of the most perfect foods – I heart avocado). My sister-in-law, Irma, taught me this and all I could think was, “Duh, why didn’t I think of that?”.

STEP 1

Grab an avocado and a lime on your way out the door.

STEP 2

Go to the office, log onto your computer, then head to the kitchenette. Yes, yes, get some water; must stay hydrated.

STEP 3

Cut the avocado in half, lengthwise. Cover the half with the seed in wrap, to save for the next day (or share with a co-worker). Cut a wedge of lime. To the other half avocado, sprinkle with sea salt (do you keep yours in your drawer?) and squeeze over the lime.

STEP 4

Get to that meeting you are late for, avocado in the palm of your hand. Eat avocado, scooping with a spoon as you converse with meeting attendees. This is of course conducive behavior for some meetings and some – not; use your judgement.

20140325-164144.jpgYou could even add a scoop of cottage cheese if you are feeling fancy (or rather, not so fancy).

THE BAD
English muffin with tomato, basil and cheese

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Not bad in it tastes bad, or even that it is bad for you. This is healthier than a “typical” breakfast sandwich, quick, easy to assemble and cook, but best of all, feels like a civilized breakfast that can be transported to the office with almost no effort. Share one-half with a co-worker; no need to be an oinker.

STEP 1

Pack an English muffin (I use whole wheat), a small tomato, a few leaves fresh basil and a few slices of cheese into a travel bag. For the cheese, I switch between fresh and hard mozzarella, cheddar, Comte, gruyere, lite Jarlsberg, or whatever specialty cheese I might have picked up that week. It is extra convenient (and requires even less time) to use pre-sliced cheese (not Kraft singles) which is what I resort to on the busiest of mornings (pre-sliced cheese, not Kraft that is).

STEP 2

Go to the office, log onto your computer, then head to the kitchenette.

STEP 3

Toast the English muffin lightly in the toaster. While it is toasting, slice the tomato, sprinkle with sea salt (which I keep at the office) and fill up a glass with ice water (to keep hydrated).

STEP 4

Put the toasted muffin halves on a piece of foil and lay a slice of cheese on the top of each muffin half; top with basil leaves then tomato. If you prefer a bubbly top, reverse the tomato with the cheese. Put the muffins into a toaster oven (in a pinch, use the microwave) and set it to “toast” which should take a few minutes during which you can begin reading emails or doing something work-related.

STEP 5

Eat at your desk as you read/answer emails. Be sure to wash your hands and your keyboard/mouse often.

THE UGLY (to make you feel pretty):
Super healthy smoothie “to go”

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Okay, so here is a solid (or not so solid, pun-intended) recipe; I am not on the juicing craze of the rest of the world, but I have to admit that when my husband went out of town a few months ago, I got into the habit of doing this (he would remind me I also ended up in the hospital, but, it had nothing to do with this, honest). I would fill the cup of my Magic Bullet with fruits, spices and yogurt the night before to be ready for a fresh puréeing of it in the morning, right as I walked out the door (glass with lid, in one). The combination below is my favorite; the addition of citrus and ginger, combined with extra cinnamon and cardamon make for a bright, sunny flavor. I don’t actually measure, rather haphazardly throw the various ingredients into the cup (but the quantities listed below, I tested for you). I use Grays Harbor plain yogurt (a local yogurt in Washington) which is not low-fat but has much less fat than a full-fat Greek yogurt would have. The wheatgrass powder adds an extra dose of healthy; helping to extend energy, detoxify and increase our immune system (and who doesn’t want to do that?).

STEP 1

Quickly, very quickly, throw the following ingredients into the cup of a Magic Bullet, Vita-mix, or food processor and purée until smooth:

1/4 banana, peeled
A handful blueberries
A few slices fresh mango
1 TB wheatgrass powder
1/4 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp cardamon
4-5 slivers of peeled fresh ginger (or just grate some in, to taste)
Juice of wedge lemon or lime
1/4 – 1/2 cup plain yogurt
1/4 cup or so fresh squeezed grapefruit (or apple) juice

You can do this the night before and purée just before heading out the door; still do it quickly or else you have missed the whole point. If you don’t have a Magic Bullet, transfer the smoothie to a glass jar with a lid after puréeing.

STEP 2

Go to the office. Yes, you will still be logging onto your computer, then going to the kitchenette (to get water, hydrate, hydrate, hydrate).

STEP 3

You can join a meeting, head to your desk or whatever your calendar has in store for your morning. A sippy cup is usually acceptable in most of the above. It is also okay to have already finished the smoothie in the car, bus, train, subway (you get the idea). Easy! Healthy! Makes you pretty (yes, even you, pretty-boy).

Share your favorites. I would love to hear how your week goes down and how you feed it in the a.m.

What the duck?

21 Friday Mar 2014

Posted by in the kitchen

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Rumor has it that it’s now Spring. I awoke chirping and cheerful. I’m not one to spring out of bed singing, but I did have a spring to my step; visions of sunshine and sunsets. Of flowers, Fiesta, Friday and fun. Buddy bounced happily behind me as I zipped room to room getting ready for work. Ginger languished behind, stretching, doing yoga moves and, most likely, contemplating breakfast. Soon she joined in and followed as we went back and forth, knowing we would soon land in the kitchen, where we would all replenish for the start of a happy Spring day. There would be squirrels for them to bark at as they looked through newly cleaned windows, there would be sunbeams to nap in, and plenty of time to snuggle.

I looked through my journals between sips of coffee to see where I had been on this day in years past. Turns out, I had been eating tuna tartare with blood orange, olives and avocado; seared halibut with mint aioli and beets. I munched on frisée salad with grapefruit vinaigrette flavored with Argan oil; and I lightened a soup of cauliflower with Pernod. This all started me thinking about asparagus and morel mushrooms, artichokes and goat cheese. I will soon find Spring onions and baby leeks, pea vines and sweeter beets.

It’s a good day when there is something to look forward to and something new to celebrate. Like standing in the sun or ending a long work week. Like I said, rumor has it that Spring has sprung.

The thing about rumors, is sometimes that’s just what they are. It must have been a rumor because as we rushed off to work, the air was shockingly cold and there was a layer of frosty ice on the car that was persistent and thick. All I could think of, as I scraped off the windows was, “what the duck?”.

Roast Duck Tacos

Tonight I will be bringing duck tacos to “Fiesta Friday” at Angie’s the Novice Gardener’s fabulous, ever-growing online party.

This is not so much a recipe as it is an explanation of a process. I usually make these when I have made roasted duck legs for dinner, one, maybe two nights before. I always be sure to roast off a few extra legs to make tacos, or wontons, or to garnish a soup.

This is a little like street food and can be packaged cutely (or not) for a party. I eat them quickly, as soon as they are assembled; sometimes standing at the counter, waiting for more tortillas to cook before even serving Tom his first one. They are easy, “Easy like Fiesta Friday” (to the tune of “Easy” by Commodores, written by Lionel Richie, no less). No extra frills or fuss, but they get the job done, always leaving me wanting more (Tom and the dogs agree as they may not have had theirs yet).

INGREDIENTS (quantities, for the most part, are left out because it is dependent on how many tacos you are making).

4 Duck hind quarters or legs
(+/-) 1 tsp each: Sea salt, black peppercorns, coriander seeds, cumin
1/4 tsp 5-spice

Fresh flour or corn tortillas
Black beans, freshly cooked (or canned)
Shredded red cabbage
Diced red onion
Lime juice
Pinch of sugar, sea salt, pepper
Fresh basil, julienned
Finely grated pecorino Romano cheese

COOK THE DUCK

In a 300 degree oven, roast the spices until fragrant. Remove and let cool. Grind in a grinder or manually with a mortar and pestle.

Rinse the duck and pat dry. With kitchen scissors, trim off extra flaps of fat (set aside to render fat for other uses). Season with the ground spices, rubbing them evenly into the meat and under the skin.

On a heated grill pan (or skillet), brown the duck, skin side down.

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Transfer to a 300-degree oven and let roast for approximately 1 1/2 hours or until crispy skin and succulent, tender meat.

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One hind quarter will yield 4-6 tacos; shown here is 6 legs (not full hind quarters)

ASSEMBLE

Shred the duck meat and keep warm.

Drizzle the cabbage with lime juice and toss to coat.

I like to use fresh, homemade tortillas or really good quality, store bought. If you are lucky and live near a taqueria that makes their own fresh (and willing to sell some) go there. I have found a local store that actually sells, fresh, uncooked tortillas which are quite good. It is also easy, but time consuming, to make your own.

If uncooked and fresh, cook off the tortillas (each-side) on a hot, non-stick skillet, until slightly-browned and bubbly. Set aside into an enclosure of kitchen towels to keep warm as the rest cook. Otherwise, heat the tortillas wrapped in damp towel in the microwave for 30 seconds or to whatever method you are accustomed.

Top each tortilla with a sprinkling of duck meat followed by beans, onion, then cabbage. Sprinkle with cheese then scatter over basil. Grab a bite and join the others at Angie’s.

Three birds, one stone

18 Tuesday Mar 2014

Posted by in the kitchen

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…or should I say, three cooks, one recipe?

I am intrigued with going back to camp (nostalga). You know the camp for kids as seen on Meatballs with Bill Murray? Frighteningly similar to the camp that I used to attend with my brother Scott when we were young. The kind with cabins and camp counselors (experiencing growing pains, not the show Growing Pains but the actual pains from growing). Lakes and mess halls, and the time I proclaimed to be allergic to eggs. No swimming for me with my broken arm, bee stings and my brother’s best friend for whom I had an enormous crush. Humiliation, exhilaration and fresh air. Making friends and fitting in, missing home and growing up.

Fast-forward to adulthood and here I am, faced with the opportunity to camp. Old school, with fellow food bloggers. Seems perfect, right? Instead of immediately signing up, I wrote to a camp alumni, “Mimi Avocado“, who by-the-way, gave it emphatic accolades. While looking to her for thoughts on the camp, I came across a post she had for banana pancakes made only with banana and egg. I always seem to have an over-ripe banana(s) in my fruit bowl. And there it stays, with the best intentions of using for bread, until it is finally so past it’s prime that it is crawling out of it’s own skin. Then, and only then, I reluctantly throw it into the yard waste bin.

I came by this pancake recipe awhile ago and the intention of making these pancakes emerged again on Saturday, when I faced the demise of yet another unsuspecting banana. That morning, I had also just found out that another fellow blogger, Simon, eats his pancakes sprinkled with sugar and topped with lemon juice. Intriguing, right? Well, as a test, I decided to make the banana pancakes, topped with avocado (for Mimi…avocado, get it?), rather than butter, and instead of maple syrup, lime juice from a grilled lime. The result was actually quite tasty, although I will say, they are extra delicious with real butter and maple syrup, but what’s the fun in that?

Banana pancakes with avocado and grilled citrus
Adapted from Mimi Holtz and Simon Johnson
Serves 2

INGREDIENTS

1 very ripe banana
2 eggs

1/2 avocado
1/2 lime (or lemon) cut into 2 pieces
1/2 tsp natural sugar

PREPARE

In a medium mixing bowl, mash the banana (skin removed) with a fork.
Add the eggs and break them up with the fork. With a hand mixer on high, beat for 1 minute until they are well-mixed and beginning to fluff.

On a hot, oiled griddle. Spoon out the batter into whatever size you prefer. Add the limes to the griddle. Cook cakes for several minutes until slightly browned, then turn over for a few minutes more.

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Divide amongst two plates and top with a few slices of avocado. Squeeze over a little juice from the grilled lime (or lemon) and sprinkle with sugar.

20140318-163701.jpgI know, this lime is raw, just checking to see if you are paying attention.

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Disclaimer: Tom does not endorse these cakes, yet they are Ginger, Buddy & Stacey approved!

One fish, red fish, fresh fish, delish

15 Saturday Mar 2014

Posted by in the kitchen

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20140315-120700.jpgBack to this later after a word from last week.

LAST FRIDAY…
To prove that I am moving back toward a healthier menu, I give you salmon, and a title fit for Dr. Suess. Why you might ask? Because, I will be crashing a party this weekend and the hostess of the party is “Suessing-out”, so I thought, “when in Rome” (or Whoville).

This is not just any salmon, by the way. This is king salmon, “Springer” salmon actually; caught fresh from the Columbia River and available for the first time this season, last Friday, at Gemini. That’s right, Friday. Once again, as the weekend began, I shed my usual habit of steak night in lieu of Fish Friday.

Usually, this salmon would find it’s way to the grill via a wooden plank, which would impart smokiness and inherently steamed in moistness. Instead, as I stood at the cash register, seconds before the numbers on my card cyber-netted their way into (and out of) my bank account, I grabbed a box of cleverly packaged parchment bags from the stand, conveniently located less than an arms length away (heck, it only increased the order by less than 5 dollars). I was tired. It was an extraordinarily long week and, although it was sunny (yep), and warm (in the sun anyways), it was still Winter. In a few short hours, when the sun had retired, I knew that a simple dinner would make much more traction than one that I wouldn’t be able, or happy, to finish. So the parchment bags seemed like a good idea. Never used them before. Well, maybe once, I think? I had a crisper drawer full of aspiring extras and pulled them together quickly to accompany the salmon in it’s bag.

20140315-113752.jpgKind of fun, and easy!

20140315-113704.jpgA happy, healthy start to a weekend.

ENTER “FIESTA FRIDAY”

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However, I still prefer the grill, or pan (seared). Tonight for my party crash, over to the Novice Gardener’s “Fiesta Friday” I thought I would go back for seconds, of salmon, not parchment, and cook it up with a little Mexican flare. Maybe they’ll like my recipe and they won’t throw me out…just yet.

King Salmon Green Enchiladas with pickled poblano and fennel relish
Serves 2

MASTER INGREDIENT LIST

1/2 cup (approximately) green sauce (recipe to follow)
Rancho Gordo Ayocote Morado beans, cooked (follow black bean method here)
1 handful (each serving) lime-pickled poblano and fennel (recipe to follow)
3/4 lb king salmon fillet, skin removed and trimmed
Sea salt and pepper to season the salmon (or a combination of roasted sea salt, coriander seeds and black peppercorns, ground fine)
4 corn tortillas
Oil for softening tortillas
4 oz ball Buffalo mozzarella
Garnish ideas: cilantro, avocado slices, tomato slices

INGREDIENTS (for green sauce; you will have extra sauce to use for another dish or to add extra salmon, tortillas and guests.)

1 1/2 lb tomatillos, husked
1 jalapeño
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1/4 sweet onion, peeled
1/2 tsp each, cumin, Mexican oregano, natural sugar
1 wad of fresh cilantro, long stem trimmed but short stem left intact. Rinsed (should wad up to the size of a ping pong ball; if you love cilantro, use more).
1-2 TB lime juice

COOK (green sauce)

Parboil the tomatillos, jalapeño, garlic and onion. Drain and put on a sheet pan. Set under the broiler (set to 400 degrees F) and broil until the skins are brown. Transfer all of the contents of the pan (juices included) to the bowl of a food processor. Add the cumin, oregano and sugar – purée. Add in the cilantro and lime juice – process to incorporate. Transfer to a small sauce pan and keep warm. For a prettier, more vibrant-colored sauce, leave out the cilantro, but the flavor is better with it’s inclusion.

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INGREDIENTS (for lime-pickled poblano and fennel)

1/4 sweet onion, shaved very thin
1/4 fennel bulb, cored, shaved very thin
Juice of 1 lime (3 TB approx)
1/2 tsp each, cumin, Mexican oregano, natural sugar
1 pinch course sea salt, ground between your fingers; add to taste
2 radishes, julienned

PREPARE (lime-pickled poblano and fennel)

Mix all of the ingredients in a bowl, at least 20 minutes in advance of assembling enchiladas.

TO COOK and ASSEMBLE the ENCHILADAS

Soften the tortillas by cooking each side briefly in a hot, oiled pan. Hold between sheets of wax paper as you finish each tortilla.

Season the salmon and sear in a very hot pan coated with olive or canola oil. Let sit undisturbed for 3-4 minutes until a nice, brown crust has formed on the top. Turn and cook a few minutes more until medium rare inside.

20140315-115135.jpgAhhhhhh, such beautiful red fish – so delish.

Meanwhile, lay two tortillas, side-by-side, on a small sheet pan. Top with a ladle of green sauce, then a layer of cooked beans (drained of liquid). Spread over a few of the pickled poblano strips and top with slices of mozzarella.

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Top each with another tortilla. Ladle over sauce and top with a salmon fillet.

Put the pan under the broiler to heat through. If you have prepared the enchiladas, sans-salmon, farther in advance and they are cold, heat through first, then add the salmon and serve.

Transfer the enchiladas to separate plates and garnish with more cilantro, slices of avocado and slices of tomato if you like. This would also be nice topped with fresh pico de gallo.

In the spirit of a good party, be sure to share with your friends (new and old).

20140315-121845.jpgThese two are always willing participants – have fish, will travel (to the bowl).

February Flashback

11 Tuesday Mar 2014

Posted by in the kitchen

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I know what you’re thinking. I need to ween myself from the meat. I have been on a colorfully red meat diet for the better part of the year and I can only chalk it up to my deficiency of iron…well, that’s my story anyways, and as they say, I’m sticking to it, okay? Some nights, when I am feeling particularly guilty, I have tried to go the other way, back into the land of fish but as of late, especially, I know if there is fish, there must also be meat (more meeet!!). Perhaps Buddy has rubbed off on me (you know what they say about humans becoming to look (or act) like their dog?). In my defense however, this dinner was something I made several weeks ago, and I have been more successful in taming that fiendish craving of meat, as my friends at Gemini Seafood Market can attest.

So, as I was saying, several weeks ago while I was cruising (yes, cruising) for meat in the back half of my local market, there sat a tray of beautiful oxtails calling out to me. I tried to ignore them so they must have jumped into my cart without even a word, because when I got home and unpacked my satchels, there they were, unexpected but welcome. I was torn as to what I would flavor them with – spicy, mild, sweet? I did a little rummaging about my kitchen and came up with a pile of ingredients that seemed to suit. The tomatillos were slated for an enchilada sauce that never emerged and the salsa was several days old and needing a warm home. As luck would have it, I had just recently made fresh chicken stock (because I was out of beef stock), and since I had left a few cups of perfectly brewed coffee in the pot that morning, I figured why not? I picked up the cranberry beans on my recent visit to DeLaurenti and if you haven’t tried Rancho Gordo beans, you are in for a treat. To add a dose of greens, toss in a handful of haricot vert for the last little bit (15 minutes).

Braised oxtails with cranberry beans

INGREDIENTS

3 lbs (two packages) oxtail, rinsed and pat dry

1 1/2 tsp kosher salt plus fresh pepper for seasoning
1 TB olive oil

1/4 cup madeira for deglazing
2 large carrots, peeled
2 onions cut in half, skin removed
3 tomatillos, husk removed, cut in half lengthwise
1 head garlic, loose skin removed, cut in half horizontally
1 cup mango salsa (I had mine left from the swordfish on Valentine’s day)
1 sprig fresh rosemary

1 knob veal demi-glace (optional)
1 1/2 cups homemade chicken stock (or beef stock)
1 cup brewed coffee
1 1/2 cups red wine

1 cup Rancho Gordo Cranberry beans (dry), rinsed

COOK

Rinse and pat dry the oxtail. Season with the salt and pepper.

Brown them in a large, low-sided dutch oven over medium heat. Be sure to brown all sides, knobly as they are. Remove to a plate (or, as I do, remove to the lid of said dutch oven).

De-glaze with madeira, scraping all of the bits off the bottom of the pan. Place the carrot, onion, tomatillo and garlic in the pan. Sprinkle the mango salsa over and tuck in the rosemary sprig.

Add back the oxtail and pour over the simmering broth/coffee and then the red wine. Bring this all to a simmer, then cover and place in a pre-heated 300 degree oven. Scatter the cranberry beans in, trying to be sure they are in liquid. These are so wonderful when cooked but I was really nervous that I would have ruined the sauce. It is true that they sucked a bit more of the liquid than I would have preferred but a sauce can still be had if only you are patient. I am of course, not patient, so I make due in a quick sort of cheating way (I add wine when I go to re-heat).

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Let cook for 3 1/2 – 4 hours, covered, checking in every now and again. As you check in on the oxtail, give them a poke and a prod; nudge things around a bit. The liquid should remain high until the 3rd hour. Tilt the lid askew after 3 hours to allow the liquid to thicken a little (but keep an eye that it does not evaporate completely). Also be sure to tuck the beans into the liquid if they pop up.

After 3 1/2 – 4 hours, the meat should be meltingly tender and the top nicely browned. Remove the pot from the oven and tilt it to one side by placing the lid under one end. The oil should collect on one side, making it easy to spoon away and discard.

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SERVE

On heated plates, place a piece of onion, a spoonful of the cranberry beans and a slice of carrot. Top with one or two pieces of oxtail and tuck the haricot vert underneath.

…and for dessert
Because it was February, closely following Valentine day (February 18th, actually).

20140311-194753.jpgMy favorite way to enjoy, baked in ramekins with marmalade (so, not Madeline after all).

Double-chocolate Madeleines

Tempted by a yummy blog post by the Healthy Epicurean, I decided to try my hand at baking. Not sure why, since I rarely bake. These just looked so good with the added bonus of being healthy, as these baked kind-of-things go.

I, being unable to completely follow a recipe (kind of a rule breaker, I am), took a few liberties to try and make them even healthier (or rather, simply didn’t have all the ingredients) to Tom’s chagrin. It is quite eye-opening as to what a baked product actually consists of when you are the one mixing up the ingredients; with this one though, I felt pretty good about what was going into them. I know I sound a little hypocritical since I would not even hesitate to add half a stick of butter to a pan of potatoes or an extra knob when cooking fish. We all have our priorities you know? Needless to say, these are most likely not as good as hers (although I liked them quite a bit); they are packed with good cocoa flavor, and are extra-delightful when baked in a ramekin with a spoonful of marmalade tucked inside.

INGREDIENTS

2 1/2 oz spelt flour whole grain
9 1/4 oz sprouted whole wheat flour
2 1/4oz cocoa (no added sugar)
2 tsp cardamom
1 tsp baking soda
2 tsp baking powder

90 g dark 70% chocolate, melted
3 eggs
5 1/2 oz can lite coconut milk
1/4 cup greek yogurt (you might need a little extra if the batter seems too dry)
3 TB honey
1/4 cup olive oil
1 pear diced
Fleur de sel for sprinkling on batter before cooking
Orange marmalade or raspberry jam (optional)

COOK

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Grease two Madeleine trays, 12 small ramekins or muffin tins (or a combination of all) with butter.

Sift the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder and cardamon into a large mixing bowl and set aside. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs. Add the coconut milk, yogurt, honey, pear, olive oil and melted chocolate. Mix on medium speed until well combined. Fill the cooking vessels with the batter, tuck in a tsp full of marmalade or jam, sprinkle with sea salt and bake until a toothpick comes away clean. The time will vary depending on how large or small your cooking vessel. Check in after 10 minutes, but it could take up to 20.

20140311-194945.jpgMy batch made 24 Madeleines, 12 mini muffins and 2 small ramekins

“Pen” Pals

08 Saturday Mar 2014

Posted by in Ginger + Buddy, the kitchen

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20140308-102613.jpgWhite wine and sauerkraut braised beef short ribs

Driving in the other morning on our long, long, l o o o o o n g trek to take Buddy and Ginger for their scheduled “spa” day, Buddy sat in his little bed/car seat in the back seat, hoodie on, shaking. Ginger had her own bed/seat on the opposite side but was clearly un-phased.

20140308-105641.jpgBuddy

20140308-105958.jpgGinger

The rain was pelting down and almost washed us away during their regularly scheduled outdoor potty break before departure. Afterwards, Buddy took refuge in his “dingy” (the name given to his bed in our master bath/dressing area), perhaps building up courage before taking the “raft” for a spin (code name for Ginger’s beds, one located in the living room and one in our bedroom). Very comfy small beds with bolster sides for resting chins on or just snuggling in like a tortellini. Looking back at him now, he seems like he is trying to stand up on a surfboard, legs splayed, a little unsure but excited and hopeful.

Buddy has always been a shaker in the car, letting out little whines and whispers until he is finally allowed to come sit on my lap in the front seat. I prefer to keep him safely strapped in on his bed, but sometimes I give in and wrap him up in my arms. Tom got a different seat belt strap for those instances but today it must have been in the other car. Fortunately, he stopped shaking and was quiet for the bulk of the journey. I was not sure if he had figured out where we were headed but even though it used to be a place of great resistance, I recently noticed the two of them are a little more agreeable to these sessions.

20140308-110319.jpgOn their way to see Victoria

I have been taking Ginger to the same groomers since she was born and Buffy went to them for 10 of her sixteen years before that. This has been a longtime relationship that when I stop to consider the enormity of how long I have trusted them, and only them, it is impressive indeed. Especially considering we live nowhere near the shop, just in the same region. I haven’t even had my groomer half as long as that (although he is a keeper too).

The day Buddy joined Ginger for his first appointment, he had been through a lot and was still getting his bearings on how to adjust to our scheduled life. Needless to say, Ginger, who had been an only child, did not help him with this adjustment; instead she asserted her feminine wilds (sic) on more than one occasion. Perhaps that was the reason for his hesitation (skepticism) in hanging out too closely with her. So when I picked them up that evening, I was surprised to see that they had been sharing the same pen all day. Victoria collected them as nonchalantly as if they were the best of friends. Little had she known that just that morning, Ginger had growled…no, snarled, with teeth, at Buddy just for trying to eat his own food.

As a (non-imposed) rule, during the day, Ginger hangs out in one room while Buddy claims another. We like to think it is to protect each half of our little home. They tend to sleep on opposite sides of the bed, and if given a choice, they would never have to share the same couch; this is what they’d like us to think. The truth is, over the three years they have been together now, a bond has definitely formed.

Where they used to pick opposite directions when let outside, they now stride out happily, side by side, bumping and jockeying for the best spot on the same part of the yard. When one of them cries out, whether for happiness or sad, the other comes running to join in the craziness or console. Most recently though, I have awaken, on more than one occasion, plastered with the fur of two pups sleepily snuggled together. So as we drove in that morning, I couldn’t help but recall that today they would be “pen” pals which means they can unabashedly share each others warmth, comfort and friendship without practicing how to be aloof.

20140308-104414.jpgThe next day they climbed into the front seat together while I was in the grocery store. Hairdo by Victoria at Looking Good, Ballard, Washington. She’s the best and they are looking good!

Sauerkraut and white wine braised beef short ribs

We usually go out to dinner in Ballard after the pups have their spa day since there are so many good places to eat and we live on quite the opposite end of town (or rather, another town entirely). This time, however, due to rain and schedules, we went home and ate leftover beef ribs instead. It was not a hardship, I assure you. These ribs are meltingly tender and take on a distinctive flavor from the cabbage; the combination is rather addictive, to me. I meant to add about 1/4 cream to the cooker during the second heating but was out. It wasn’t really necessary but I stirred in the sour cream as an afterthought at the end. The idea for this preparation came from Doris Cappadona, my brother’s Mother-in-law. About, what seems like a decade ago, she described throwing sauerkraut, Riesling, grapes and cream into a pot with beef and slow cooking it until tender. I always thought it had sounded delicious so with my leftover sweet and sour cabbage, I decided to give it a try. I used Chardonnay rather than Riesling and no grapes. This is probably a completely different dish than the one that she described but it is a keeper none the less.

INGREDIENTS (for the ribs)

2 lbs boneless beef short ribs (about 4 large)
Salt and pepper to season (I use my “seasoning” that I make with roasted salt, pepper and coriander)
A slight dusting of flour for the ribs
Olive (or canola) oil for browning
1/2 bottle white wine
1 cup thickly sliced crimini mushrooms
1 cup sliced leek (1 medium)
1/2 cup diced onions
2 cloves chopped garlic
3 medium yellow potatoes cut into quarters
2 large carrots cut in half lengthwise
1 cup sauerkraut (or homemade sweet and sour red cabbage as I used since I had some leftover from a previous meal – recipe to follow)
1 TB apple cider vinegar
2 TB sour cream

COOK (the ribs)

Rinse and pat dry the beef; season and dust with flour.

In a large sauté pan, brown on both sides in olive or canola oil. Remove from pan and set aside.

Deglaze the pan with a good hit of white wine, scraping up the burnt/brown bits. Pour this over the beef.

Wipe the pan clean and in a little more oil, sauté the mushrooms, leeks, onion and garlic for about 10 minutes until slightly softened. Add in the cider vinegar and cook to combine.

Transfer the contents of the pan to the bowl of a pressure cooker (I use an electric cooker). Add in the potatoes and sauerkraut (or cabbage) and top with the beef then the rest of the wine.

Close the pot and turn to high heat set on 10 minutes. When the lid is released, add the full carrots and turn set the time for 6 minutes more. When the lid releases, stir in the sour cream.

SERVE

In hot, shallow bowls, dish a little mushroom and potato (that will be coated in a lovely, melted cabbage and onion sauce) into each bowl, add a sliver or two of carrot and dust over some grated pecorino Romano. Garnish with an soft herb such as basil or sorrel.

All said, dinner to the table in an hour or less with possible leftovers for a wayward night out.

INGREDIENTS (for the cabbage)

Olive oil for sautéing
1 medium-sized red onion – peeled and sliced, slices cut in half
1 head (approx 2 lbs) sliced red cabbage, core removed
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup red wine
1 TB (approx) sugar
1 1/2 tsp (approx) salt
2 TB butter

COOK (the cabbage)

Heat a low-sided Dutch oven and add olive oil, just enough to coat the pan, 1 TB or so. When it is hot enough to move freely when tilting the pan, add the onion and cabbage. Stir a few minutes to soften the vegetables then add the vinegar and wine, then sprinkle with sugar and salt. Bring to a simmer, add dots of butter scattered on top then cover and transfer to a preheated 300 degree oven. Cook for approximately 1 hour. Check in now-and-again to stir. When the cabbage begins to be meltingly tender, remove the lid and cook until the liquid has all evaporated. It won’t hurt to cook longer than needed so err on the side of more is better to get a succulent result.

20140308-173301.jpgenjoy for multiple days

Steak can wait

01 Saturday Mar 2014

Posted by in the kitchen

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As the long days of Winter become shorter and more manageable with hints of sunshine and brighter days to so come, I yearn for something lighter at my table and on my plate. It is still cool outside and the snow is threatening to fall but here in the Pacific Northwest, the promise of Spring begins to show with the happy abundance of fresh fish at my neighborhood seafood market. It is mostly coming from Alaska and Hawaii but some beautiful sturgeon has begun to appear from the Columbia Valley this week. It is Friday night, which, usually means steak night, but with a craving for the briny flavor of the sea (river, lake, pond…) I decide to swap out my fillet of tenderloin for an equally dense fillet of fresh sturgeon. Sturgeon is a very dense, mild fish that lends well to a hot flavorful bath. I don’t start in the kitchen with this thought but it occurs to me that I have at my disposal, a freshly made batch of basic tomato sauce, 6 plump, fresh BC Honey Mussels (that I couldn’t resist purchasing with the sturgeon) and a desire to cook with anchovies (prompted by a recent contest); the perfect storm!

If sturgeon is not available, you could substitute monkfish or cod. The end result evolved into, essentially, a thickened tomato bread soup with accessories. The flavor is briny and intoxicating, offset beautifully by the light, sweet flavor of the fish. Spooning the concoction over warm, crusty bread was a last minute decision that turned out to be a most satisfying addition. If you don’t have time or inclination to make the tomato sauce from scratch, there are a number of good-quality jarred sauces that I am sure would work too, but the end result will be different (perhaps better? Or worse…)

Sturgeon bathed in anchovy tomato sauce with Mediterranean friends
Serves 2-3

INGREDIENTS

1 TB olive oil
5 fresh anchovy fillets (it is essential to use good quality anchovies, packed in oil, not from a tin. I buy mine out of the refrigerated section rather than off the shelf).
2 cups homemade tomato sauce

1/4 head of cauliflower (you will only need 2-3 pieces per person but if you roast the whole head, you could use the remaining for a soup)
Olive oil for brushing
Fresh pepper

Olive oil for browning the fish
3/4 lbs Columbia River Sturgeon fillet, lightly seasoned with sea salt and pepper, skin and bloodline removed.
1/4 cup chopped cippolini onions or shallots
2 cloves chopped garlic
1 TB fresh, chopped rosemary
2 TB capers, rinsed (preferably salt-packed)
6 Castelvetrano olives, pitted, cut in half
2 medium sized tomatoes, cored and cut into 8 pieces
1/2 cup cooked, drained cannelini beans (optional)

1 cup white wine
6 live honey mussels (or the best available to you in your area)

2 qty. 1″ thick slices crusty bread (heated in the oven or grilled)

PREP

20140301-081004.jpgwhen trimmed, the sturgeon might look like this

In a small saucepan, heat 1 TB olive oil until very hot, but not smoking. Drop in the chopped anchovies, they will sizzle. Turn down the heat slightly and let them fry for a minute or two until fragrant.

Add the tomato sauce, cover and let simmer a few minutes more until the flavors have melded. Set aside.

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Brush the cauliflower with olive oil, grind over fresh pepper and roast in a 400 degree oven until browned (20-30 minutes). Cut into florets, trimming away most of the stem, set aside.

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COOK

In a heated skillet tipped with olive oil, brown the sturgeon on one side. When you are able to move it without sticking to the pan, flip it over, add the onion and garlic.

Turn the heat down a bit, stir the onion mix and add in the rosemary, capers, olives, fresh tomato and beans (if using). Toss gently to combine without disturbing the fish.

Pour in the white wine and bring to a simmer. Add the mussels; give the pan another shake.

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Add the tomato sauce and roasted cauliflower. Quickly bring back to a simmer and transfer to the oven (which should still be heated to 400 degrees). If you haven’t already done so, put the bread in the oven to heat and toast slightly being careful not to burn.

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If the mussels have already opened and the fish still feels dense to the touch, transfer the mussels to a plate and keep in a warming drawer or covered nearby. The fish might need 5 – 10 minutes in the oven to cook through and become tender.

When the fish is nearly ready, add the mussels back to the pan to heat through.

SERVE

Tear each slice of bread into large pieces and place in the bottom of 2 (or 3) deep, heated, individual serving bowls. Ladle some of the sauce over the bread then, using kitchen tongs, place a piece of fish and three mussels on top with a few pieces of cauliflower alongside.