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10 Legs in the Kitchen

~ Food. Dogs. Life!

10 Legs in the Kitchen

Monthly Archives: December 2013

APPETIZERS PART DUEX – HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU!

31 Tuesday Dec 2013

Posted by Stacey Bender in From the journals, holidays, the kitchen

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

Appetizers, Barbecue pork, Coconut prawns, Dipping Sauce, duck won ton, New Year's Eve, Tuna tartare

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Alright, let’s get right to this, we have a lot to do. It’s time to celebrate – out with the old and a toast (not of the bread variety) to new beginnings. Of course this also means food; good food, decadent but simple food, good-luck food, and the need to begin preparing food now! Where shall we start?!

Oysters are a brilliant beginning – I like them plump and small… Kushi, Kumamoto, Belon… whichever of these mollusks that you tend to prefer!

….and then there is duck… always a good idea this time of year. I love it crispy and tender.

Are you having a party, going out, or just staying put?

If you are having a party or just a few friends in (heck, even yourself, your partner and / or your pets), dig through the closets and pull out the glitter. We have an old box that Tom drags out each year, full of party hats, silver stars, noise makers and horns. It is in desperate need of replenishment (actually, replacement), but each year I wear my (somewhat tattered) tiara (at least for a bit), Tom switches it up between various ridiculous hats and Ginger wears a tiara of her own (Buddy is still skeptical of head gear but has a dapper black top hat that Ginger chewed on as a young pup). We blow wildly into horns that have been blown into for years before and dress up the table with decorations that have lived a full life but bring smiles and memories still.

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Since the goal is to make it past midnight, I like to keep the food coming and not too light or too little (Update 12/31 pm: Tom’s note: “frequently & filling”). Think of this as a dinner deconstructed, meant to last through the night. You can only eat so many puff pastries and dips before feeling the need to line up at Dick’s Drive-in (or insert favorite late night grub hub here) before going to bed.

NEW YEAR’S EVE NOSH, NIBBS and NABS – Below is a small sampling of some standard appetizers I might offer on a night such as this… depending on who will be joining, how many and when. Take inspiration from these or improvise, but whatever you do, grab a party hat, kiss someone at midnight, and ring in the New Year with cheer!

These descriptions are somewhat loose and informal (or I would be here all day with nothing to eat tonight); if you have questions or interest in further instruction, please feel free to give me a shout.

OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL WITH A CLASSIC MIGNONETTE.
I favor a classic mignonette to a traditional cocktail sauce with my oysters. These are great with a cold glass of bubbly or try a chilled sake instead.

Super easy to make, just mix 1 TB champagne (or rice wine) vinegar, 2 TB chopped shallot, 15 grinds black pepper, 2 TB chopped cilantro, a few dashes tabasco and a 1/4 cup champagne. Shuck the oysters before the guests arrive and have them sitting in their shell, over rock salt, on a platter (in the refrigerator until ready to serve). When you are ready to put them out, spoon a little mignonette sauce over each one, and garnish the platter with lemon wedges, cilantro and small bowls of the sauce; offer tiny forks too. They will go quickly so be ready with the next thing soon after.

TUNA TARTARE WITH MISO, AVOCADO & PICKLED GINGER

Using approximately 6-8 oz. of sashimi grade ahi tuna, cut into 1/8″ dice (work quickly and with a sharp knife so it stays cold). Put the tuna into a small bowl and sprinkle with sea salt & fresh ground pepper. Squeeze over the juice of 1 small lime wedge. Mix in 1 TB finely chopped pickled ginger, 2 TB finely diced avocado, 1 tsp finely chopped green onion, 1 tsp finely chopped cilantro, 1 TB miso sauce (recipe to follow) and a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds. Carefully mix together with a rubber spatula (so as not to squish the tuna). Chill, covered tightly with plastics wrap until ready to serve. When ready to serve, dollop a small bit of miso sauce onto fried won ton crisps and mound a small spoonful of tartare over top; garnish with mint (or better yet, shisho if you have access to this asian mint which I get at Uwajimaya). If you prefer, rather than using wonton wrappers, you could fill self-standing appetizer spoons with the tartare and set out on a platter for a more elegant presentation.

MISO SAUCE (you can also use this sauce for the pork tenderloin and / or toss it in with fresh Dungeness crab, finely chopped kumquats and cilantro; serve in endive spears).
To make the miso sauce: In a food processor, combine, 1 TB chopped fresh ginger, 1 TB rice wine vinegar, 1 TB mirin, 1 tsp chopped garlic, 2 TB light miso paste, and 1 egg yolk. With the motor running, add 2 TB hazelnut oil and 7 TB peanut oil. An easier option is to mix everything except for the egg yolk and oils with 1 cup of mayonnaise instead. Drizzle in a little of one or both of the oils for flavor.

DUCK WON TONS – WITH CITRUS SOY DIPPING SAUCE
I make this when I have leftover duck legs, but to be easy on myself when I want to make these and don’t have leftover duck, I buy a duck confit leg from Whole Foods, PCC, or Don & Joe’s in the Pike Place Market (confit of duck is available at many places that sell good food).

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Simply heat the leg so that it is soft enough to release the meat in shreds. Discard some, but not all, of the fat and all of the sinew. Place in a bowl, with the juice of 1/2 lime, a handful of cilantro, chopped, 1 tsp Sambal, 2 chopped fresh figs (or 1 Medool date if fresh figs are not available since the season is early Spring or late Fall; in Summer I use nectarines, and mango works too). Place a spoonful into the center of each won ton wrappers. Fold one corner over the filling making a triangle then fold the two bottom corners in to touch the top corner. Wet the edge with a dab of water and press to seal in the filling (keep a small bowl of water at your prep station with which to do this). Repeat until all of the filling is used. You will want to cook these sooner than later or the wraps will become soggy. Fry in peanut or canola oil; working in several batches and single layer, I use a stainless sauté pan or a wok. They can burn quickly so be sure to give them your full attention; they will need just a few minutes per side. Remove to tray lined with paper towel and sprinkle with sea salt. If you are cooking them early, they can be popped into the 375 degree oven to heat through when you are ready to serve (paper towel removed first).

SOY CITRUS DIPPING SAUCE
Simply whisk together 3 TB lime juice, 3 TB rice wine vinegar, 6 TB sake, 6 TB soy sauce, 1 tsp Sambal, 1 tsp honey. Or use twice this amount.

GRILLED COCONUT PRAWNS – MANGO DIPPING SAUCE
I am quite a big fan of fried coconut prawns, however, I always make wontons on New Year’s Eve so therefore, to cut down on fried stuff, this is a healthy compromise (not to mention easier to deal with for a large crowd from a small kitchen).

With the best quality prawns (or shrimp) you have available or can afford, peel and clean leaving the tail intact. Dry thoroughly with paper towels and drizzle lightly with olive oil and rub with a spoonful of the thick part of a can containing coconut milk (you can use the rest to make a sauce with and grilled chicken wings if you like). Mix in chopped garlic, grate over some lime zest and grind over fresh pepper. Grill over hot coals, propane or sear in a hot oiled wok. When they are slightly golden and the body begins to curl (a few minutes each side), transfer to a bowl, squeeze in fresh lime juice, sprinkle over toasted coconut shreds, and sea salt to taste. Serve alongside a bowl of mango dipping sauce.

MANGO DIPPING SAUCE
Too easy… just whiz in a blender, the meat of 1/2 a mango (depleted of skin), 1 tsp Dijon mustard, juice of 1 lemon wedge, 1 TB peanut oil and a little water to thin (start with 1 TB at a time). Adjust flavors and thickness as desired.  Go here to see another, longer version

HOISEN PORK TENDERLOIN SERVED SLICED, WARM and with CABBAGE LEAVES, SPICY MUSTARD & SESAME SEEDS
I make this almost every year, beginning with a party I threw when we lived on Queen Anne with a view of the Space Needle. It is a homemade version of barbecue pork and can be served as a dinner course or as an appetizer to feed a large crowd. If doing for a big party, I often make four tenderloins so I can keep replenishing the tray through the night as they cook. They could also be cooked in advance and warmed one by one or even serve chilled.

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In a zip lock freezer bag, mix 1/2 cup hoisin, 2 TB ketchup, juice of 1/2 a lemon, 1 chopped garlic clove, a handful of cilantro – chopped, 1 chopped green onion, 1 TB chopped fresh ginger, 1 tsp five-spice. Season one or two pork tenderloins with salt and pepper (I use my roasted pepper, sea salt and coriander mix). Add the pork to the bag of marinade and let sit one hour or up to two days before cooking. To cook, line a baking pan with aluminum foil large enough to fold over the top of the pork. Transfer pork and marinade mixture to the pan and cook at 350 degrees until internal temperature reads 160 degrees. This should take approximately 30 minutes during which time you should turn the pork once and cover with the foil if beginning to burn. Let sit to rest for 10 minutes then remove from the pan, leaving any sauce behind, slice thin and serve warm alongside prepared Chinese mustard (thinned with a little miso sauce if you have made some or perhaps a little crème fraîche if you like, a plate of sesame seeds and hoisin diluted with lemon juice. Offer napa cabbage leaves on the side or assemble pretty pork cabbage cups instead.

20131231-142701.jpg…and again, hope for those kitchen cleaning elves!

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Let them eat (crab) cake!

27 Friday Dec 2013

Posted by Stacey Bender in From the journals, holidays, the kitchen

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Appetizers, Brunch, Crab cakes, Holidays, Roasted red pepper mustard sauce

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Everyone likes a good (crab) cake (well anyone who likes crab that is…and for those that don’t, they will probably like cake, although they might have to look elsewhere for that. You can’t please them all). Finding a good crab cake is not as easy as it might seem. Often they are riddled with much more breadcrumb than crab, squishy, mushy and bland. I have figured them out though, quite some time ago, and crab cakes continue to be one of my favorite things to make for a (small) crowd. I have deviated from my most basic method on more than one occasion by trying to introduce interesting flavors and flares of creativity but, let’s face it, some things are just not to be messed with, period. So, the basics shall remain and the creativity might come in the sauce or the presentation; which, in itself could be subject for a book. For now though, I’m keeping it simple. Plus red(ish) and green. For the holidays!

BASIC CRAB CAKES

So, if you are wondering if it is worth the added effort of shelling your own crab – it is! If you are one that can delegate, this is a good task to delegate to those asking for a task. I, always being short on time, and particularly bad at delegating, often opt to buy the crab meat rather than the whole crab, but, the outcome does then suffer. Not to say this is a bad way to go (but before it goes into the seafood case, it does come out of a can); just saying that if you have the time and want the best, buy the crab, freshly cooked, cleaned and still in it’s shell. I know that’s how I’m gonna roll going forward! I do have Gemini close by – home of the BFC’s (Big Fat Crab)!

INGREDIENTS

Freshly shucked meat from 1 dungeness crab (approximately 1lb meat)
1 TB chopped green onion (mostly white part)
2 TB chopped roasted red pepper
1 TB chopped fresh herbs (I sometimes use cilantro and thyme, today it was micro-celery greens which I highly recommend, in which case omit the celery)
1 TB finely chopped celery
The juice from 1 large lemon wedge (Meyer if possible)
A grind or two fresh pepper
2-3 shakes from container of Old Bay Seasoning
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 TB crème fraîche or Wildwood aioli
A few shakes Tabasco sauce

Part of one beaten egg

1/4-1/2 cup (or less) Panko, plus more to coat cakes with

Roasted red pepper mustard sauce
Greens for garnish

PREP

Other than the quality of the crab, the next most important thing to do, for a successful cake, is to
s q u e e z e out all of the moisture before you begin. I use paper towels for this; cheese cloth is even better but I seldom actually have cheese cloth around.

Once the crab is depleted of excess water, place it into a bowl, just big enough to hold it until you are ready to mix everything together.

20131227-153157.jpgIn a medium sized bowl, mix the green onion, red pepper, herb, celery, lemon juice, pepper, mustard, aioli or crème fraîche, Old Bay and Tabasco.

20131227-153456.jpgAdd the crab, stirring carefully with a rubber spatula, so as to keep the chunks intact.

Taste and adjust the seasoning before adding the egg. Add 1/2 – 3/4 of the whisked egg and 1/4 cup of the panko, adding more in small quantities as needed. You will want to have enough crumb to hold the mixture together without excess moisture. I like to add as little panko as possible (which will result in a purer flavor). Once satisfied with the mix, form into rolls with the palm of your hand. You can make them as big as you like but the larger they are, the fewer the quantity. I like mine on the smaller side so more of it is coated with the crispy brown crumb when sautéed.

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As you form the rolls, cup them tightly in your palms and squeeze out the excess moisture again (which will partly be egg). Be sure they are tightly packed together as you pat the shape into an organic round ball.

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When all of the mix is formed, set out a plate of panko and press each ball into the panko, lightly and with care so as not to flatten too much; do this with both sides.

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Cover in plastic and let chill in the refrigerator for an hour before cooking.

COOK

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat a pan (I use my copper core stainless steel All Clad) and add enough peanut oil (or canola, or olive – in that order) to just cover the bottom with enough to slide slightly around. The pan should be big enough to let each cake sit without being crowded or you should do this step in separate batches. When the oil is quite hot but not smoking, add the cakes and let brown; approximately 2-3 minutes. Turn them over to brown on the opposite side. You want them to be golden, not black and not pale. Adding a slight bit more oil if required but keep a close eye. When browned on two sides, transfer the cakes to a pan (I use a pizza pan) and finish cooking in the oven until warmed through. If you like, and it is more convenient, you may brown them up to an hour in advance, set onto the pan on the counter until the guests have arrived and each has received their cocktails. Pop them into the oven for somewhere between 8-10 minutes. Serve at once while still hot, on a platter or on individual plates (with garnish and, of course, sauce). Since it was handy (and red), I decided to use my roasted red pepper mustard sauce this time.

…and for breakfast – Crab Cakes with Poached Egg and Hollandaise

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Uneaten cakes will do well for your breakfast. I often hold back a few to cook fresh the next morning but heated or just cooked, either way, they taste great topped with a poached egg and a vast variety of sauces. Hollandaise is quick and easier than you might think, so I usually do that.

To my emptied, but un-wiped “magic bullet” jar that I made the pepper sauce in (or food processor fresh and unused), I add 2 TB clarified butter hot off the stove to one egg yoke. Whiz this together and then put it back to the (little) saucepan used to make the clarified butter (for added zip and a little heat, add a pinch of chipotle chile powder). Heat the pan over low and add an ice cube to keep the sauce from becoming too thick while the eggs poach. Top a crab cake with a poached egg and spoon over the sauce. A few breakfast potatoes are also quite nice to go alongside but a salad garnish is simple, healthy and crisp.

20131227-155456.jpg Buddy, uh, what happened to the bacon (Did I mention the bacon; that was for Tom)?

APPETIZERS PART ONE – Holiday Basics

24 Tuesday Dec 2013

Posted by Stacey Bender in holidays, the kitchen

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

antipasto, Appetizers, holiday, seared tuna, smoked salmon

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For some reason I am constantly getting pegged as the queen of appetizers, often by my sisters-in law, occasionally by my dinner guests, and most recently by my Mother-in-law (as this post comes by way of her request). When asked off-the-cuff, “What are good appetizer recipes?”, certain favorites come to mind quickly, but I can’t say I easily give a reply. As with all food served for gatherings, large or small, calculated orchestration is in order for the most thoughtful results. Who is the audience, what is the context, what is the purpose (formal dinner, family gathering, cocktail party…), how much time do you have to prepare? These are a few of the questions you should be answering when constructing a menu.

I happen to be writing this in December, not December 1st, but December 21st (however, I’m posting this on December 24th (‘cuz I was… carefully o r c h e s t r a t i n g my own feast), so by nature I am going to be predisposed to thinking about holiday food here; I hope that’s okay.

Admittedly (full disclosure), “carefully orchestrated” sometimes means, the thought was there, time ran out and, “oh shit” the guests are arriving soon, what do I have to serve first, need to make it up quickly, very quickly and with at least a little bit of grace)!

All of the above in mind, consider these rules:

Rule #1: Try to keep (some) ingredients stocked in the fridge.
Rule #2: Always keep (a good selection of) ingredients stocked in the pantry.
Rule #3: Never ignore rules #1 and #2 (because you never know when this will save you from saying, “oh shit”!).
Rule # 4: Improvise while you shop; your best thoughts might come at the market.
Rule #5: Seriously, improvise, creativity is free-flowing and FUN!! (Go with the gut and use your instinct).
Rule #6: Presentation, presentation, presentation – even shoe leather would be complimented if it looked good (okay, slightly extreme, but I can’t emphasize this enough).
Rule #7: Cook what you know, or at least know that you understand how to pull off what you cook, and more importantly, that you will have fun doing it.
Rule #8: Quality is your friend. Don’t be a cheapskate unless you just can’t afford not to be (and even then, go for quality over quantity).
Rule #9: Always know when and how to break the rules, or for that matter, how to make the rules.
Rule #10: Be a good host/hostess and have a good time. It is not all about the food (did I actually say that?). It is about the gathering, so breathe and have a good time so your guests will too!

SOME BASICS + one or two extras

CHARCUTERIE: Smoked, cured or prepared meats, often heavily influenced by pork). Add some nice cheeses, olives, cornichon, thick, chunky mustard and a baguette for a respectable feast.

Go to a good market and ask for an assortment or pick out the meats you like or look good to you. Pâté can (and should) be part of the mix. I often prepare my own pâté, but there are many readily available for purchase, and often can be purchased in small or large quantities so you can tailor it to your needs. Set out neatly but casually on a nice platter and it will look quite impressive, but take little effort.

ANTIPASTO PLATTER: Italian translation is “before the meal”; an antipasto platter houses an array of little treats to wet the palate. At it’s most basic, you could even purchase many of the items from an olive bar already prepared (such as roasted tomatoes, marinated mushrooms, pickled carrots and so on), and from the deli counter.

To make it easy, yet impressive, I like to do a mix of things that can simply be set out and things I prepare. Many of the small bites, especially finger food, could be considered for the platter, but I find it more elegant to set these on/in their own serving vessel, and keep the antipasto platter for foods that one might like to top onto slices of bread or crostini. My antipasto platter might look something like this:

SLICES OF PROSCIUTTO: Folded neatly or wrapped around steamed or grilled asparagus.

SLICES OF COPOLA & BRESAOLA + ONE HARD & ONE SOFT CHEESE

MARINATED MUSHROOMS: 1/2 lb of Crimini mushrooms cut into halves or quarters, sautéed 5 minutes in olive oil, then tossed with 1/2 clove chopped garlic, pinch of crushed red pepper and sea salt, 2-3 TB chopped shallots, the juice from 1/2 a lemon (Meyer if available), a mix of chopped parsley and thyme. Adjust flavors as desired and store in a jar.

ROASTED EGGPLANT & RED PEPPER: I like to use Chinese eggplant but regular will do. If using regular eggplant, cut approximately 3 cups worth of 1″ chunks, if using Chinese eggplant, cut 2-3 of them in half lengthwise then into 1″ slices. Toss lightly in olive oil then sprinkle with sea salt and chopped jalapeño. Roast in a 400 degree oven until tender (15-20 minutes) then squeeze over juice of 1/2 lemon and 1 tsp aged balsamic. Fold in a little chopped mint and drizzle with some good quality olive oil (alternatively, a few crumbles of French feta instead).

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I like to roast my red pepper over a flame until charred. I then put it into a paper bag to sit for 10 minutes, remove and rub off the skin, remove stem and seeds, slice into respectable sizes and toss with the eggplant.

ROASTED GARLIC: 2-3 heads. Cut off the tops to just expose the tip of the meat, peel the first few layers of skin, drizzle with olive oil then wrap in foil and cook at 350 degrees for approximately 1/2 hour or until the meat is tender and soft.

ALBACORE TUNA & RADICCHIO SALAD: Drain and mix the best quality can of albacore tuna you can afford and mix it with the juice of one small lemon (Meyer if available), 2 TB olive oil, 1 tsp chopped mint, 3 TB chopped shallot, 4 carefully diced mandarin orange segments, 2 seeded, chopped Castelvetrano olives, fold in a handful of shredded radicchio. Adjust with sea salt if needed. Serve in a large radicchio leaf on the platter. Alternatively, you could make into…

TUNA STUFFED PEPPADEW: Make the tuna salad, leaving out the oranges and radicchio, adding chopped parsley with the mint. Mix in some French feta and stuff the salad into the peppadew (available by the jar or from most olive bars, such as at Whole Foods).

VEGETABLE ARRAY: Please, not the kind you find at the super market, or worse yet, Costco. Remember to follow rules #6 and #8. I’m speaking of an artful array of seasonal, organic veggie’s such as kohlrabi, peeled and sliced thin; baby garden carrots, cut in half lengthwise but with green tip in tact; romanesco florets which are much prettier than cauliflower; and par-boiled haricot vert, sat upright in a nice little container. If these are good quality, no dips are required, offer sea salt instead. I like to put out separate plates of one or two types of vegetable. For instance, I might have a round platter with overlapping slices of kohlrabi and radish, sprinkled with sea salt and freshly chopped parsley. On a separate square plate will be the romanesco, two different colors, taking up 2/3 of the space; alongside sits a square bowl, tall enough to allow the haricot vert to stand up. A small square bowl of sea salt tucks in next to the beans.

20131224-134244.jpg Romanesco in green, pictured above. Also comes in orange.

SEAFOOD PLATTER: Something most-often acquainted with the holidays is a seafood platter. I would like to refer you here to my “A Crabby King” post. In addition, I will further elaborate in my next segment so stay tuned.

TOMATO & BASIL BRUSCHETTA: This might be easy (and obvious) but it is one of my favorite things. Yes, this is best in the summer when tomatoes are truly tomatoes, sweet, plump and rich with sun-drenched flavor that explodes on your tongue (the colors are quite festive though and you can feed a big or small crowd). If choosing to make this off-season (at least for us North of the equator), a little thoughtfulness will be required in choosing your source for tomatoes. Look for the sweet varieties such as Capri or Kumato (brown, can get at Trader Joe’s) or golden grape. Simply dice the tomatoes, removing their core (be sure to capture as much of their juices in the bowl that you put the diced pieces into). Add an appropriate ratio of chopped garlic (depends on how much you want the garlic to stand out; I usually do 1/2 clove when using 3-4 medium sized tomatoes). Sprinkle with good, chunky sea salt, crushing it over with your fingers (I use just a pinch or two and my hands are small). Grind over some fresh pepper, then drizzle with a little olive oil. If the tomatoes are not as sweet, I add a little aged balsamic vinegar (just a drizzle). Now, tear or slice some fresh basil and stir. I like copious amounts of basil, but again it is a personal judgement call.

Cut a nice quality bread that has decent crust (such as ciabatta or Como) into 1/4″ slices. Brush both sides with olive oil and grill. Alternatively, you can bake them on a sheet in the 350 degree oven until just slightly browned; turn and repeat. Be careful not to cook too long or they will become quite hard when they cool.

Right before serving, top the bread with the tomato mixture and line the pieces up on a platter. Alternatively, you can set out the bowl of tomato mixture and bread separately, letting the guest assemble their own (which I find some tend to not want to do, too hands on). I like to add fresh mozzarella or chèvre to the bread first.

ROASTED BEETS WITH CHÈVRE (or feta) & BASIL (or mint): This is a slightly more advanced vegetable tray but is effective in it’s simplicity, festively colored and delicious to most. Simply roast off some beets, the best you can find (chioggia beets are pretty at the holidays, mix them with red beets and your platter will be stunning). Remove the skin and slice 1/8″ thick. Put onto a round platter, overlapping slices, then squeeze over a little lemon juice, drizzle with good quality olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Now you have a few choices – You can dollop on fresh goat cheese (chèvre), in which case you might also choose to sprinkle with fresh basil, but you could also choose mint. Or, you can crumble over feta, where as I would likely choose mint. In either case, the quality of the cheese is important (rule #8); French feta is my favorite because it is softer and milder in flavor, which melds nicely with the strength of the beet. For a final (and festive) touch, sprinkle over chopped pistachios and grated orange zest.

SEARED AHI TUNA WITH ROASTED RED PEPPER MUSTARD: This one is actually pretty easy too and can be done, mostly, in advance. The trick here is to, once again, follow rule #8; the best quality tuna available to you should be used. I am lucky to have Gemini Fish Market nearby so this is not a problem for me. If you can get block-cut tuna, all the better.

Always give your fish a cool rinse and a pat dry before storing or proceeding (wrap tightly in plastic wrap). Sprinkle with sea salt and fresh pepper to two sides (I use a mixture of roasted sea salt, peppercorn and coriander seeds that I grind to season my meat and some fish). To provide a better sear, I also sprinkle over just a little natural sugar, then drizzle with olive oil and rub evenly over all sides. It is best to sear this right before serving, but if the guest list is large and the to-do tasks are plenty, it can be seared early in the day or (gasp) one day ahead; cooled and wrapped tightly in plastic wrap for storing in the fridge. Always bring to room temperature before serving. To sear, I like to use a grill. I use my outdoor grill year-round, even though I have a Wolf indoor grill too. Tuna is one of the things I grill indoors because; 1. It gets hotter than the grill outside this time of year; and 2. Tuna cooks quickly if you want to keep it rare (which you do), so the likelihood of the smoke alarm going off is low; plus brrrrrr… baby, it’s cold outside! Sear one side until brown, but no more than that (2-5 minutes), turn and sear the other side one-minute more. It should be crusted on the outside and rare in the middle. You can let rest a few minutes, then slice and serve right away. Or, you can let cool completely, wrap in plastic and keep refrigerated up to one day in advance. Let it come to room temperature before serving.

ROASTED RED PEPPER MUSTARD SAUCE: Roast one red bell pepper as described above under ANTIPASTO. Put the pepper into a food processor and add 2 TB Dijon mustard and 1 TB crème fraîche, 2 shakes of cayenne. Turn on the processor, and while running, add a drizzle of olive oil.

20131224-155902.jpgokay, not the best depiction (the sauce should be under the tuna) but you get the idea
On a long skinny platter, drizzle with the sauce then layer the tuna slices lengthwise in two rows. Put a row of cilantro down the center, between the rows. Serve a small bowl of additional sauce alongside (I’ve had guests eat the sauce by the spoonful).

SMOKED SALMON POTATO BITES: Smoked salmon is a common (in our neck of the woods), but great thing to break out at the holidays. Here is a festive way to serve it. Using good-quality smoked salmon (not lox, and hopefully king), put approximately 1 cup, flaked apart, into a bowl. Add 2 TB crème fraîche, 1 tsp prepared horseradish, 2 tsp grated orange zest, 2 tsp chopped green onion, 1 TB finely diced cucumber, 1TB finely diced golden beet (roasted and optional), 2 tsp micro celery greens (available at Whole Foods), or chopped celery leaves. With a rubber spatula, carefully mix all together without breaking the flakes down too much; the mixture should just barely hold together but not crumble apart. Top 1/4″ slices of potatoes that have been cooked in salted water until tender but firm and not falling apart. It is nice to use a variety of red, purple and gold potatoes; sizes can also vary for added interest.

Whew!…….So, above is a (not so) quick brain dump of ideas. I will follow with Part Deux before the New Year, outlining a few traditional things that I equate with the festivities that December 31st can bring. Until then, cook well, eat well and enjoy the holidays with family, loved ones and friends!

20131224-144644.jpg Hopefully the little elves will sneak in and do the dishes……one can hope anyways

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First things first

18 Wednesday Dec 2013

Posted by Stacey Bender in holidays, the kitchen

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Christmas, pasta, spaghetti, tree trimming

20131218-200936.jpgSaphire martini – a tradition

I have never much liked trimming the tree at Christmas. I did a poor job of verbalizing the reason to my family who thought I was just being lazy, sleepy or bored. What I did know was that it wasn’t to do with the old metal (albeit shiny) trunk chest that belonged to my Father that needed retrieving, year after year, from under the stairs. Also required was a good under the stairs closet cleaning, first. This, so we could actually reach the trunk; important because it housed all of our Christmas ornaments (and trust me, we had more than a few). I actually liked this ritual, minus the cleaning. Seeing the shiny chest opened to reveal centuries worth of sentiment was good enough for me to play along.

It wasn’t because I kept pricking my finger with the re-purposed ornament hooks that needed a good deal of untangling before one could be set free. I was used to fishing (actual fish) so, I could put up with that.

It wasn’t even because of the tinsel, which Dad made us put on s t r a n d by s t r a n d (and yes, they came down that way too – back into the box… o n e by o n e). Those of you that have never had the happy fortune to experience real lead (yes lead, as in, red-list lead) tinsel – well, let’s just say, “they don’t make it like they used to”, as my Dad would explain in the same breath that instructed us the correct way to remove it from the box and apply it to the tree… no cheating by the way; no choosing more than one strand at a time… maybe three is okay – if he isn’t looking!

Now before you say that I’m a bah humbug, hear me out, because actually, I’m quite the Christmas bug (in an equally cute sort of way). I am! It’s just that I prefer to sit on the sideline, watching everyone happily discover old memories from the ornaments as they unwrap each of them individually, and box by box. There is always a story. The story accompanies every single ornament before finding that perfect spot on the tree. From my seat on the couch, curled up by the fire, I have the best view. I have always loved Christmas, and to me, it starts with the tree (usually the day after Thanksgiving, but NEVER before). Thanks to Dad, we always had a glorious tree, 20+ boxes of meticulously laid tinsel, a 100 year-old Santa doll, part home-made/part store-bought ornaments, and all!

Christmas-time begins with the tree. No matter how many fake Santa’s lined the malls with their so called “elves”, and fake snow sprayed onto stage sets. No matter how many shelves of candy, wrapped in red, green and gold that eventually turn stale. It is the tree that puts off the scent of Christmas, and can fill the home with a magical spell. For us anyways.

Since Tom and I recently returned from Hawai’i, and immediately got thrown right back into the rat race, I forgot, just for a moment… or two, that it IS indeed the holiday season of which we are usually fully emerged by this date. Why is it that we are not? We began the Holiday tunes in Hawai’i. Heck, even Ginger and Buddy had decorated themselves in antlers and bells (did any of you notice their antics up top?).

I looked around our house and it just felt the same. No snow was outside, no lights were shining (okay, maybe a few lights, which we leave in our backyard year ’round – holiday lights, turn to winter lights, turn to late night mood lighting, and then back to holiday lights…). It donned on me suddenly, we were still lacking a tree.

So, first things first, to start our festivities and bring in the spirit that makes me smile from within, we have gone out and fetched a most splendid tree, put it up and trimmed it (actually, real elf Tom did the trimming, as is often the case). Each year we proclaim this year’s tree to be more spectacular than the last. It can’t be too perfect or too tightly filled in. There needs to be character and openings to fit ornaments cradled just right. Tall ones and short ones, fat, skinny or wobbly ones.

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Keeping with the traditionalist in me, Mr. Crosby (not to be confused with Bill Cosby in a reindeer jumper) is singing in the background as our first, most important ornament is hung. Tom bought this for me from a little country store outside Madison, New Jersey during our first Christmas together at my brother Scott’s old place; it began our tradition of snowmen-only trees. The second to go up is a silly picture frame ornament purchased at Eddie Bauer a zillion years ago, which contains a picture of Buffy, in my brother’s room as we wrap presents during the same trip; she was laying on the floor next to Christine’s red pumps and ended up wearing them thanks to Tom (not really her style, but we cherish the picture nonetheless).

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With our traditional tree-trimming martini, we toast first to Buffy and then to “us”; this year marks our 20th Christmas together.

“Almost Christmas” spaghetti (not to be confused with Christmas fettuccine) serves 2 (possibly 3)
Since it is a work night and a very long week, I decided to make dinner simple and comforting. A good quality Italian jarred tomato purée, lovely unfiltered, extra virgin olive oil, red wine and Unami paste, make for a remarkably quick but tasty sauce. Thanks for the much-appreciated treats Paula and Jeff!

LINGUINE BOLOGNESE the shortcut version

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INGREDIENTS

1TB olive oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 medium shallot, chopped
1/2 lb ground beef, seasoned with sea salt and pepper and brought to room temperature
1 cup cooked tomato puree (I used Mariangela Prunotto organic tomato purée)
3/4-1 cup red wine
1 tsp Unami paste (or more to taste)
1 tsp oregano

6-8 ounces good quality dried, Italian spaghetti noodles (such as Montebello)
Olive oil for tossing
Fresh parmesan cheese

Garnish:
Soft baby mixed greens
Lemon juice
Pinch of salt
Freshly grated Parmesan

PREP

HEAT A SAUTÉ PAN over medium heat then add the olive oil to the pan. When it is warm enough to move freely when tilted, ADD the garlic and shallot, cooking for just a minute or two. ADD THE BEEF and BROWN undisturbed for a few minutes then stir and continue to let it brown. ADD 3/4 cup red wine and let it simmer down. ADD the tomato purée, Unami paste and oregano. BRING TO A SIMMER then cover the pan and turn down the heat to low.

This will be fine on it’s own for bit while you munch on a piece of cheese and pour a glass of wine while admiring the tree (and it’s decorator). It will want to cook for at least 15 minutes in order to let the flavors blend and the beef soften. This is a good time also to fill your pasta cooking pan with water and let it begin to come to a boil.

COOK

COOK the pasta as the package instructs. When cooked, drain (saving a little of the pasta water to refresh the sauce if needed). DRIZZLE the pasta with some nice olive oil then GRATE some Parmesan over top and TOSS.

CHECK ON the sauce and adjust the seasonings or consistency as you desire. ADD the pasta to the sauce to heat through.

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PLATE

DIVIDE the pasta between two warmed pasta bowls.

DRESS a handful of greens with lemon juice and salt, a little olive oil if you like, TUCK them into the pasta mound. GRATE over some fresh cheese and enjoy with a piece of crusty bread, with olive oil for dipping and (of course) a glass of red wine.

Buon Natale!

47.535759-122.054772

Beach pizza (Jack & Zoe pizza)

07 Saturday Dec 2013

Posted by Stacey Bender in beach mode

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

beach cooking, Hawaiian pizza, healthy pizza, pizza on the beach

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Got treats?!

20131207-130936.jpg Zoe & Jack (ssshhh….don’t tell Ginger & Buddy).

Day 9 – 10th evening: Have gone out to eat dinner twice (will share later), made dinner on the beach 7 times; last night made the eighth beach-cooked meal, and in an effort to simplify and add some gooey comfort, pizza hit the mark. There used to be a great pizza joint just up the road, an errant shot from the tennis club. We used to go there once a trip for lunch, but most enjoyed the night each trip we zipped in, picked it up to-go and took away a feast that was easy on the beach. There’s a place in Manzanita (on the Oregon Coast) that was it’s only rival that (we’ve found so far). Unfortunately, Matteo’s closed, only to be replaced with another pizza place at that location, that is nice, but not as tasty (but check this out, looks like we are leaving Island too soon – we will report on this next trip but by all means, anyone that goes, please send feedback). We opted to take matters into our own hands for pizza night, and this was the result.

Blank slate pizza (purchase from Whole Foods because you have surf and sand time priorities instead of prep time).

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Blank slate Fresh start pizza – Caramelize Maui sweet onions and put them over the cheese pizza; top with fresh tomato slices

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Blank slate, Fresh start, Meat lover’s pizza – Add thin slices of Parma prosciutto and Calabrese salame

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Blank slate, Fresh start, Meat lover’s Hawaiian pizza – and then add some freshly diced Maui pineapple

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Blank slate, Fresh start, meat lover’s, Hawaiian, Healthy pizza – for added flavor and much health benefit, add sliced kale, dipped first in a lemon vinaigrette (make in a jar for the salad that will share the pizza’s plate)

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Blank slate, Fresh start, Meat lover’s, Hawaiian, Healthy, Surfing Goat pizza – dollop some “undderly delicious” Surfing Goat cheese evenly around.

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Cook in 500 degree oven for 8-10 minutes. Remove and let cool slightly before putting back in the cardboard packaging to transfer to the beach for reheating over hot charcoal on beach.

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Whew…….beach pizza – 13 minutes start to finish

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Disclaimer: Time does not include packing, transporting and reheating. Total time before grilling should be at least 2 hours to have time to enjoy sunset Happy Hour. Let cure in beach pavilion refrigerator (if lucky to have) or cooler until sun sets and wine (or beer) is opened. Gin and tonics (or preferred drink – alcohol or otherwise) to proceed and accompany sunset. Fresh-cut vegetables, such as purple, yellow or orange carrots (that still look like carrots) alongside kohlrabi and radish are nice. Serve vegi’s sliced neatly with Stacy’s Bare (will not insert comment from Tom) Pita Chips and hummus prepared by Whole Foods Maui (the best hummus I have had outside of Chez Stacey – no kidding!).

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Just Jack!

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Night, night Jack!

20.702319-156.445634

a dogs brekkfust. By buddy

04 Wednesday Dec 2013

Posted by Stacey Bender in Ginger + Buddy

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

kibbel, meet

one Larjk scup Kibbul add Meet.

quikkly.,,, mmore meet !!! sddrizal with meeet Joos

sterrr

mom sumtyz add Pills an stuff
but i dont think it tayst betttr

surrvs one ( unsoopureyes’d ) or 2 ?? typig iz Harrd

the End.
yor pal. buddy

buddy

a dogs brekkfust. By buddy

04 Wednesday Dec 2013

Posted by Guinea & the Pigs in Ginger + Buddy

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

kibbel, meet

one Larjk scup Kibbul add Meet.

quikkly.,,, mmore meet !!! sddrizal with meeet Joos

sterrr

mom sumtyz add Pills an stuff
but i dont think it tayst betttr

surrvs one ( unsoopureyes’d ) or 2 ?? typig iz Harrd

the End.
yor pal. buddy

buddy

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