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10 Legs in the Kitchen

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10 Legs in the Kitchen

Tag Archives: Dipping Sauce

(I am) Saucy

03 Friday Oct 2014

Posted by Stacey Bender in beach mode, From the journals, the kitchen

≈ 24 Comments

Tags

Dipping Sauce, nectarine sauce, sauce for fish, sauces, savory fruit sauce

PS_cover

We start out as kids with nicknames that suit us.  Sometimes those names stick for life (sorry Patty Patoot-Patoot) and sometimes we are able to shake free from their implications and mockery.  I was fortunate enough to wiggle away from my nickname of Q-tip (as long as the incriminating photographs from the 80’s are avoided).

On a trip to Hawaii (over 10 years-ago this past September), I became known as Saucy.  I like this name much better than Q-tip, but the name is not because I am spicy, sexy or hot.  It is because I am one to make sauce, but moreover because I brought sauce… to Hawaii.  In a freezer bag.  Well, actually three freezer bags, three sauces – nectarine sauce, strawberry sauce and romesco, all savory, all great for fish.

The previous Summer, we had dined out every night in Maui, but realized that there were a few really good reasons not to dine out as much the following year.  First of all, it is expensive.

Secondly, my Grandfather owns a condo in a really nice complex that has a community kitchen.  On the beach.  Well, adjacent to the beach, and with a grill big enough to roast a pig on, literally.  Okay, not literally (unless it is a potbelly pig).

But most importantly (thirdly?), we could take our time on the beach at sunset, drinking our gin & tonic leisurely rather than worrying about racing back up the slope to get changed in time to eat out before sundown (which apparently indicates bedtime around there).  After the sun goes completely away (as in no more light from the sun in the sky) the moon glows brightly, romantically tickling light onto the water and the stars sprinkle sparkles from the sky.  This is when we open up our nap sack, uncork a bottle of wine and lay out the appetizers I prepared earlier in the day.  Then (after eating of course) and only then, do we head up to the beachside kitchen where our bags of groceries have been left waiting in one of the refrigerators, turn on some music and cook out, under soft light and the sound of crashing waves.

hot grillThis is just a quarter of the grill.

Which brings us back to the grill; it is large and requires coals, but has amazing airflow to get hot, and fast.  Our friend Tim, whom we met that trip, literally throws the whole bag directly onto the grill and lights it on fire.  The first time we met them, we had been sitting on the beach at sunset, drinking our G&T.  Suddenly there was a blaze of fire up the way and to our right out of sight, in the vicinity of the grill.  We thought they were sending out a smoke signal to be rescued from the island.  But then later, they thought our tuna looked like fish-bait (size-wise, but it was block-cut and just caught hours earlier).

tuna ready for grill
Okay, this is a piece of tuna and does look like fish-bait.  It was used to make an amouse though, not dinner!

And by the end of the night, we had all become fast friends, plus they were sharing our (dinner) fish with strawberry sauce + kula corn (and there were six of them and two of us).  Each night after that, we met at the “big pool” (home of the beachside kitchen), we cooked, we drank, and we ate a family meal, talking and drinking well into the night.  And of course, there was always a sauce, or three.  To them, my name went from Stacey to Saucy and for Tom, the “big pool” became (un-officially) known as, “Chez Stacey’s Beachfront Cafe” and he always managed to find the perfect ti leaf for an appetizer “plate”.

DSC07573
This one is named “Tuna” and is NOT FISH BAIT!! Cute little beach bug, huh?

in iceNectarines on ice.

Nectarine Sauce

This sauce came to me one night when I had an excessive amount of nectarines (is that even possible?), a craving for roast duck and the desire to make a sauce.  It has been made every year since that first year, recorded in my journal (volume 2, page 72) in July, 2001.  I always freeze it in half-cup portions to use throughout the winter.  It is excellent with duck, lamb and fish but works well as a dipping sauce for wontons, potstickers, or shrimp rolls too.  It can also be added to a little Dijon mustard, sea salt (of course), lime (or lemon) juice and olive oil for a great vinaigrette.  In other words, it is versatile (and travels fine on a 5 hour flight).

You will likely have a little sludge (nectarine solids) left in the pointed part of the chinois;  I like to save this in a small bowl with a tight-fitting lid to use as a spread on toast with a little soft cheese or as a condiment on a sandwich (perhaps on ciabatta with sliced leg of lamb, or on rye with turkey, havarti and avocado).  Think of it as a bonus: spicy nectarine conserve.  I even use it on tacos.  It is the rugged cousin to the nectarine sauce, chunky and good for spreading, whereas the sauce is smooth, pretty to look at and perfect to dip in.

You can adjust the heat of the sauce to your liking by adding more lime juice and/or honey if too spicy, or adding another pepper if too tame.  It should be a nice color of butterscotch and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.  This sauce is spicy, sexy and hot.

INGREDIENTS

4 large-sized nectarines, pit removed
1 yellow wax pepper
1 jalapeño
1 Hatch chilli or 2 red Fresno chilies
1 smallish onion (sweet onion or red onion preferred), skin removed and ends trimmed
A drizzle of olive oil

1 good sized clove of garlic, chopped
1 cup sake
Juice from 1/2 fresh lime (and potentially from the other half)
1 TB Demi-glacé
1-2 TB simple syrup or honey (if needed)

PREPARE

Put the nectarines, peppers and onion on a baking tray and drizzle with a little olive oil.  Shake to coat.

Pre-heat the broiler and broil them on the middle rack, turning frequently, until the peppers are nicely browned on all sides.  The nectarines and onion will not be as cooked as the peppers.

Remove the pan from the oven.  Trim the stem from the peppers then scrape out and discard out the seeds.  Cut the peppers into large pieces.

Cut the onion into chunks.

Remove the pit from the nectarines and cut into large chunks.

In a medium-sized saucepan, heat some olive oil (approximately 1 tsp) and sauté the garlic.  Add the peppers, nectarines and onion.  Cook for a few minutes until they begin to soften and meld together.

Add the sake and juice of half a lime.  Continue cooking over medium-low heat for another 10-15 minutes.  Let cool slightly.  Transfer to a food processor and purée (this recent time I used my Blendtech on the sauce setting).

Pass the purée through a chinois.  It is okay (and preferred) to have 1/4 to 1/2 cup solids left that don’t pass through the mesh; reserve this to use as mentioned above.

Put the sauce back to the pan and add the Demi-glacé.  Simmer for a few minutes then taste.  If it is too spicy, add the simple syrup or honey, and possibly the juice from the other half of the lime.

This will store in the refrigerator for several days.  I usually use this sauce once or twice when freshly made and then divide it into small Ziploc freezer bags to keep frozen for use through the winter months.

PS_opahGrilled opah is a lovely choice for eating on a beach.

DSC00802

Since I’m not on the beach this year, I’ll take this over to Fiesta Friday for the Novice Gardener with a party hat on my head!  This party hat is in celebration of my Dad’s birthday (happy birthday!!!!).  I heard the party at his house this evening is drinking margaritas and eating some pretty good grub.  So, since I can’t be there, I thought I would join my friends at the notoriously glorious fiesta that is being co-hosted this week by Selma and Elaine, and I will try not to break into song (as I did earlier on his annual birthday wish).

I am lighting the candles on his virtual banana cream pie!  Blow out the candles Dad and hope your wishes come true!

APPETIZERS PART DUEX – HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU!

31 Tuesday Dec 2013

Posted by Stacey Bender in From the journals, holidays, the kitchen

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

Appetizers, Barbecue pork, Coconut prawns, Dipping Sauce, duck won ton, New Year's Eve, Tuna tartare

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Alright, let’s get right to this, we have a lot to do. It’s time to celebrate – out with the old and a toast (not of the bread variety) to new beginnings. Of course this also means food; good food, decadent but simple food, good-luck food, and the need to begin preparing food now! Where shall we start?!

Oysters are a brilliant beginning – I like them plump and small… Kushi, Kumamoto, Belon… whichever of these mollusks that you tend to prefer!

….and then there is duck… always a good idea this time of year. I love it crispy and tender.

Are you having a party, going out, or just staying put?

If you are having a party or just a few friends in (heck, even yourself, your partner and / or your pets), dig through the closets and pull out the glitter. We have an old box that Tom drags out each year, full of party hats, silver stars, noise makers and horns. It is in desperate need of replenishment (actually, replacement), but each year I wear my (somewhat tattered) tiara (at least for a bit), Tom switches it up between various ridiculous hats and Ginger wears a tiara of her own (Buddy is still skeptical of head gear but has a dapper black top hat that Ginger chewed on as a young pup). We blow wildly into horns that have been blown into for years before and dress up the table with decorations that have lived a full life but bring smiles and memories still.

20131231-144214.jpg
Since the goal is to make it past midnight, I like to keep the food coming and not too light or too little (Update 12/31 pm: Tom’s note: “frequently & filling”). Think of this as a dinner deconstructed, meant to last through the night. You can only eat so many puff pastries and dips before feeling the need to line up at Dick’s Drive-in (or insert favorite late night grub hub here) before going to bed.

NEW YEAR’S EVE NOSH, NIBBS and NABS – Below is a small sampling of some standard appetizers I might offer on a night such as this… depending on who will be joining, how many and when. Take inspiration from these or improvise, but whatever you do, grab a party hat, kiss someone at midnight, and ring in the New Year with cheer!

These descriptions are somewhat loose and informal (or I would be here all day with nothing to eat tonight); if you have questions or interest in further instruction, please feel free to give me a shout.

OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL WITH A CLASSIC MIGNONETTE.
I favor a classic mignonette to a traditional cocktail sauce with my oysters. These are great with a cold glass of bubbly or try a chilled sake instead.

Super easy to make, just mix 1 TB champagne (or rice wine) vinegar, 2 TB chopped shallot, 15 grinds black pepper, 2 TB chopped cilantro, a few dashes tabasco and a 1/4 cup champagne. Shuck the oysters before the guests arrive and have them sitting in their shell, over rock salt, on a platter (in the refrigerator until ready to serve). When you are ready to put them out, spoon a little mignonette sauce over each one, and garnish the platter with lemon wedges, cilantro and small bowls of the sauce; offer tiny forks too. They will go quickly so be ready with the next thing soon after.

TUNA TARTARE WITH MISO, AVOCADO & PICKLED GINGER

Using approximately 6-8 oz. of sashimi grade ahi tuna, cut into 1/8″ dice (work quickly and with a sharp knife so it stays cold). Put the tuna into a small bowl and sprinkle with sea salt & fresh ground pepper. Squeeze over the juice of 1 small lime wedge. Mix in 1 TB finely chopped pickled ginger, 2 TB finely diced avocado, 1 tsp finely chopped green onion, 1 tsp finely chopped cilantro, 1 TB miso sauce (recipe to follow) and a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds. Carefully mix together with a rubber spatula (so as not to squish the tuna). Chill, covered tightly with plastics wrap until ready to serve. When ready to serve, dollop a small bit of miso sauce onto fried won ton crisps and mound a small spoonful of tartare over top; garnish with mint (or better yet, shisho if you have access to this asian mint which I get at Uwajimaya). If you prefer, rather than using wonton wrappers, you could fill self-standing appetizer spoons with the tartare and set out on a platter for a more elegant presentation.

MISO SAUCE (you can also use this sauce for the pork tenderloin and / or toss it in with fresh Dungeness crab, finely chopped kumquats and cilantro; serve in endive spears).
To make the miso sauce: In a food processor, combine, 1 TB chopped fresh ginger, 1 TB rice wine vinegar, 1 TB mirin, 1 tsp chopped garlic, 2 TB light miso paste, and 1 egg yolk. With the motor running, add 2 TB hazelnut oil and 7 TB peanut oil. An easier option is to mix everything except for the egg yolk and oils with 1 cup of mayonnaise instead. Drizzle in a little of one or both of the oils for flavor.

DUCK WON TONS – WITH CITRUS SOY DIPPING SAUCE
I make this when I have leftover duck legs, but to be easy on myself when I want to make these and don’t have leftover duck, I buy a duck confit leg from Whole Foods, PCC, or Don & Joe’s in the Pike Place Market (confit of duck is available at many places that sell good food).

20131231-144110.jpg
Simply heat the leg so that it is soft enough to release the meat in shreds. Discard some, but not all, of the fat and all of the sinew. Place in a bowl, with the juice of 1/2 lime, a handful of cilantro, chopped, 1 tsp Sambal, 2 chopped fresh figs (or 1 Medool date if fresh figs are not available since the season is early Spring or late Fall; in Summer I use nectarines, and mango works too). Place a spoonful into the center of each won ton wrappers. Fold one corner over the filling making a triangle then fold the two bottom corners in to touch the top corner. Wet the edge with a dab of water and press to seal in the filling (keep a small bowl of water at your prep station with which to do this). Repeat until all of the filling is used. You will want to cook these sooner than later or the wraps will become soggy. Fry in peanut or canola oil; working in several batches and single layer, I use a stainless sauté pan or a wok. They can burn quickly so be sure to give them your full attention; they will need just a few minutes per side. Remove to tray lined with paper towel and sprinkle with sea salt. If you are cooking them early, they can be popped into the 375 degree oven to heat through when you are ready to serve (paper towel removed first).

SOY CITRUS DIPPING SAUCE
Simply whisk together 3 TB lime juice, 3 TB rice wine vinegar, 6 TB sake, 6 TB soy sauce, 1 tsp Sambal, 1 tsp honey. Or use twice this amount.

GRILLED COCONUT PRAWNS – MANGO DIPPING SAUCE
I am quite a big fan of fried coconut prawns, however, I always make wontons on New Year’s Eve so therefore, to cut down on fried stuff, this is a healthy compromise (not to mention easier to deal with for a large crowd from a small kitchen).

With the best quality prawns (or shrimp) you have available or can afford, peel and clean leaving the tail intact. Dry thoroughly with paper towels and drizzle lightly with olive oil and rub with a spoonful of the thick part of a can containing coconut milk (you can use the rest to make a sauce with and grilled chicken wings if you like). Mix in chopped garlic, grate over some lime zest and grind over fresh pepper. Grill over hot coals, propane or sear in a hot oiled wok. When they are slightly golden and the body begins to curl (a few minutes each side), transfer to a bowl, squeeze in fresh lime juice, sprinkle over toasted coconut shreds, and sea salt to taste. Serve alongside a bowl of mango dipping sauce.

MANGO DIPPING SAUCE
Too easy… just whiz in a blender, the meat of 1/2 a mango (depleted of skin), 1 tsp Dijon mustard, juice of 1 lemon wedge, 1 TB peanut oil and a little water to thin (start with 1 TB at a time). Adjust flavors and thickness as desired.  Go here to see another, longer version

HOISEN PORK TENDERLOIN SERVED SLICED, WARM and with CABBAGE LEAVES, SPICY MUSTARD & SESAME SEEDS
I make this almost every year, beginning with a party I threw when we lived on Queen Anne with a view of the Space Needle. It is a homemade version of barbecue pork and can be served as a dinner course or as an appetizer to feed a large crowd. If doing for a big party, I often make four tenderloins so I can keep replenishing the tray through the night as they cook. They could also be cooked in advance and warmed one by one or even serve chilled.

20131231-143841.jpg
In a zip lock freezer bag, mix 1/2 cup hoisin, 2 TB ketchup, juice of 1/2 a lemon, 1 chopped garlic clove, a handful of cilantro – chopped, 1 chopped green onion, 1 TB chopped fresh ginger, 1 tsp five-spice. Season one or two pork tenderloins with salt and pepper (I use my roasted pepper, sea salt and coriander mix). Add the pork to the bag of marinade and let sit one hour or up to two days before cooking. To cook, line a baking pan with aluminum foil large enough to fold over the top of the pork. Transfer pork and marinade mixture to the pan and cook at 350 degrees until internal temperature reads 160 degrees. This should take approximately 30 minutes during which time you should turn the pork once and cover with the foil if beginning to burn. Let sit to rest for 10 minutes then remove from the pan, leaving any sauce behind, slice thin and serve warm alongside prepared Chinese mustard (thinned with a little miso sauce if you have made some or perhaps a little crème fraîche if you like, a plate of sesame seeds and hoisin diluted with lemon juice. Offer napa cabbage leaves on the side or assemble pretty pork cabbage cups instead.

20131231-142701.jpg…and again, hope for those kitchen cleaning elves!

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