Category Archives: From the journals

One from “the book(s)”

16 Wednesday Apr 2014

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20140416-200953.jpgBalsamic Braised Chicken Thighs

This is one of those meals that is restorative for me, both from the fragrance during the braise and the memories of the time during which I developed the meal. After a long recovery from surgery years back, I was finally well enough, both to cook and to enjoy eating again. While Tom was at work, I made use of the mishap ingredients already hanging out in my kitchen (yes, the endive was there also, two weeks old and not fit enough to go naked, which is why it got sugar-coated). I have this recipe written in my journal (volume 5), dated May of 2006. I can uncover it’s whereabouts quickly by flipping through pages and scanning for a date nearing that time. This continues to be a favorite chicken dish for my husband Tom, who truth be told, is much more of a breast man (so still not sure what he is doing with me).

The vinegar is nicely offset by its’ sweet counterparts, making for a well balanced mix. The distinct essence of the Balinese long peppers is just subtle enough to add a unique flavor without overpowering the other players.

I like to leave my potatoes whole, but you could just as easily cut them in half depending on their size. A mix of colors might be nice here as well, such as purple and red, to add more visual interest. This goes together quickly, making it great for a weeknight but is elegant enough for a dinner party.

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INGREDIENTS (for braising liquid)

1 1/2 cups Prosecco (you could also use sparkling wine or vermouth)
1 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
Juice of 1/2 lemon (approximately 2 generous TB)
1 TB fig paste
1 TB honey
2 TB Dijon mustard
1 TB chicken demi-glacé (if solid, cut a 1/2″ x 3/4″ chunk)
1 TB chopped fresh rosemary
3 Balinese long peppers (optional)*

PREP (the braising liquid)

Add all the ingredients to a small saucepan and bring to a light boil.

Reduce the heat and let simmer, uncovered, until the flavors meld (approximately 10 minutes).

*Long peppers are very fragrant but not a typical ingredient. I have a box in my pantry that I got several years ago from a specialty food store. I use them when I want to add an exotic flavor that is not over powering; this is why I use only two or three at a time and why they remain in my pantry (still effective after all these years, by the way). You can omit them and this dish will still be tasty, but lacking that extra layer; like the bracelet that would add to the outfit, but not make the outfit.

INGREDIENTS (for chicken)

1 1/2 lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs
Sea salt and fresh ground pepper
1/4 cup semolina flour
1 TB olive oil for sautéing

2 sweet onions, skin peeled, cut into 1/4 inch slices
25-30 small baby Dutch potatoes, rinsed
2 Belgium endive, rinsed
1 tsp natural sugar
Rosemary sprigs and lemon wedges for garnish

PREP (the chicken)

Rinse and pat dry the chicken thighs

Season chicken with sea salt and pepper. Sprinkle over the semolina flour to coat thighs, shaking off excess.

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Heat a large, heavy-bottomed, low-side Dutch oven until hot. Add the olive oil and brown the chicken thighs on one side. Turn the thighs over, cook for one minute then add in the onions. Be sure that the onions end up slightly under the chicken. Pour over the braising liquid then add the potatoes, pushing them to submerge in the liquid.

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Bring the liquid to a simmer and transfer to a 375 degree oven (not covered). Baste every 15 minutes for approximately an hour.

After 45 minutes, add the Belgium endive and let cook for 5 minutes or until just tender. Remove and cut them in half lengthwise. Set aside.

When the chicken is done (it should be tender and juices clear), remove the pan from the oven, cover and let rest for 10 minutes while you finish the endive.

To finish the endive, heat a sauté pan to hot. Sprinkle the sugar over the bottom of the pan and set the endive in cut side down. Allow this to sit, undisturbed for a few minutes as it caramelizes. Sprinkle with sea salt and fresh pepper. Squeeze in the lemon juice.

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PLATE

Divide the potatoes and onions among four plates.

Top, slightly askew, with one or two thighs. Put one endive half alongside.

Spoon over some of the sauce and garnish with a sprig of rosemary and a wedge of lemon.

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Please Remove Your Shoes

31 Monday Mar 2014

Posted by in From the journals, Ginger + Buddy, the kitchen

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20140331-195149.jpgCrispy halibut with raw beet, apple, cabbage slaw

When Buddy came to visit us with his Foster Mom, Michelle, three years ago, he walked right in as if he had always lived here. He came in the door, alongside Sophie (a shitzu who was also sadly looking for a home), said his proper hello then proceeded to make a beeline straight to the living room where he confidently climbed into Gingers “raft” (code name for her living room bed). Ginger, had no reaction. This was a strong indication that he may, in fact, be here to stay.

To give a little context to the significance of this move, I need to let you know that Ginger was not on board with our decision to provide her with a little brother. In fact, she had no idea that this was a real consideration. Ginger was ten years old at the time and had always been the center of attention. Ginger is far more interested in the people we meet than their dogs and through her actions around the other dogs, she was very clear about her desire to be an only child. Ginger is a little territorial. She also doesn’t like to share.

So when Buddy made himself at home in her very special bed, Tom and I both looked at each other with wide eyes and took a deep breath. Then… nothing happened. We were elated and at the same time, quite surprised.

Our next step, as Michelle suggested, was to take them for a walk together. Buddy plowed forward like a bull dog, hind feet propelling so fast I thought he might do a summersault. Ginger competitively tried to get ahead but they both ended up strolling together, side-by-side. They tromped through the wet grass at the park and sniffed everything along the way, including each other. It was still wet out from the rain and the mud coated their little paws making patterns on the sidewalk as they marched onward.

When we returned home, Tom took Buddy and I took Ginger, into our arms and carried them to the back door to wipe their feet with the paw towel. Michelle was puzzled by this and said, “Oh, they have to wipe their feet?”, as if this might break the deal.

We don’t have many rules in this house, but one that we make everyone abide by is, “please remove your shoes”. We even provide guest slippers in a bin next to our door, yet they rarely ever get worn. Most people don’t have a problem with this rule, but it is obvious that not all people have this one. Buddy doesn’t like the rule. He likes everything about living here but continues to try and wear his dirty shoes in the house. When I open the door from the backyard to let him in, he sheepishly looks up at me and hesitates when he sees the towel in my hand. I can see his eyes darting to and fro, looking for an alternate route. He usually takes two steps back and requires a little coaxing to come inside (screen door practically shutting closed and thwacking him on the butt).

I take his tiny paws, one at a time and gently brush the towel back and forth to remove the dirt then give a little squeeze to dry the moisture. The second I release his fourth paw, he catapults out of my hands as if he were a wind-up toy, heading toward the treat jar.

Balanced nutrition and healthy foods are a key to building a stronger body. The first time I took Buddy’s little paws in my hands, they were so thin and frail, I feared I would snap them in two. Just this morning, I couldn’t help but notice that his feet felt big and his legs felt sturdy. The little twigs that used to be in their place have grown strong and healthy and a diet rich in nutrients, devoid of chemicals and fillers have played a big part.

Needless to say, he did stay and even Ginger thinks he is kind of swell (although won’t admit it). So with a spring in their step and all shoes removed, Buddy and Ginger join us at the table for our family dinner, halibut tonight.

Crisp halibut over raw beet, apple, cabbage & blue cheese slaw with mint aioli
Serves 2 plus enough for two small pups

As usual, Buddy and Ginger get their fish cooked in foil, sans seasoning and they take their slaw undressed, minus onion. You can use any dense white fish, or even salmon, instead of halibut. I like using golden beets in the Springtime and red beets closer to Fall.

INGREDIENTS (for slaw)

2 cups shredded napa cabbage
2 small or 1 medium golden beet, cleaned & peeled
1/2 red apple, cored, sliced and julienned (squeeze lemon juice over to keep them from turning color)
2 green onions, sliced
Juice of 1/2 lemon
2 TB mint aioli (recipe to follow)
1 oz. good quality blue cheese, crumbled (I used Rogue Creamery Reserve)
Sea salt & freshly ground pepper to taste

PREPARE (the slaw)

Parboil the peeled beet. Slice the beet very thin (helps to use a mandolin). Set aside six slices for garnish.

Mix together the cabbage, beets and onion in a medium bowl. Squeeze in the lemon juice and sprinkle over a pinch or two of sea salt

Toss in the aioli and mix well. Add the blue cheese, carefully mixing it in.

Season to taste and let rest at room temperature as you cook the fish.

INGREDIENTS (for the mint aioli)

1 TB rice wine vinegar
1 TB lime juice
1/2 tsp Thai hot sauce
1/2 tsp sugar
Pinch of sea salt
1 TB chopped shallot
1 egg yolk
6 TB peanut oil
1 TB hazelnut oil
1/4 cup packed fresh mint

PREPARE

Process the the vinegar, lime juice, hot sauce, sugar, shallot and yolk in a food processor. Slowly add in the oil until emulsified. Add the fresh mint and process until smooth.

INGREDIENTS (for the fish)

3/4 – 1 lb fresh halibut fillet, skin removed and cut into 2 pieces
Sea salt and pepper to season
1/4 cup white whole wheat flour (or all purpose)
1/4 tsp smoked paprika
1 egg, lightly beaten (or spanked ever-so slightly)
1/2 cup panko

COOK (the fish)

I don’t typically measure out the flour or panko, so don’t get too hung up on the quantities listed above.

In addition to lightly seasoning the halibut with salt & pepper, I also lightly season the flour with the addition of smoked paprika.

Rinse and pat dry the fish (friendly-like). If you have a small dog(s), consider trimming the ends of the fish off to cook in foil for them (trust me, they will love you even more if that’s possible).

Dust the fish (no feathers necessary) with the seasoned flour then dip it into the egg letting the excess drip off. Press the fish into the panko on each side.

Heat a pan until hot and add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Add the fish and let cook, undisturbed until it has formed a nice brown crust. Flip it over and cook through a few minutes more, depending on it’s thickness. If you like, you can transfer the pan to a 375 degree oven once it is flipped and continue cooking it in the oven.

TO SERVE

Put three beet slices down on each plate. Put a mound of slaw in the center and top with a fillet of halibut. Serve with a small bowl of aioli alongside. Alternately, you could drizzle some sauce on the plate before you put down the beets. A sprig of mint makes a nice garnish.

20140331-204953.jpgFriends without dirty shoes (on a clean-ish floor); paws washed for dinner.

Life Predicts Change

22 Saturday Feb 2014

Posted by in From the journals, the kitchen

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Life can be predictable, and for me, predictable is what life will always be…

20140222-160739.jpg Found this in my journal – volume 3, circa 2003; from my niece, Catherine (to me, Cat), age 6

I will, always, sleep until the last possible second before needing to get up for work. Most days, Buddy will, always, be waiting for me outside the shower, ready to cry if I don’t give him (and Ginger, who is three steps behind) their raw diet immediately upon grabbing a towel. Tom will, always, eat anything I put before him, and eat it as if I have given him a gift. So, life goes on like this…always, day-in, day-out. What’s not predictable is the change. It could be the subtle things, that happen quietly, in a whisper. They might pour upon us in a slow and gentle trickle. Or, the unexpected change that gives our world a big shake up, requiring agility and finesse just to keep from falling down.

Good, bad, or otherwise, it is predictable that change will occur. Our lives become better for it, richer! Our expanse of experience becomes larger and wider. More fulfilled. It might not seem that way because change is not always by choice and yet, sometimes it is.

I feel change coming. I don’t know why…I don’t know what. But, on this day, I feel like something familiar, comfortable and predictable. I want to fill the house with smells that are as safe and comforting, to taste something that will welcome me back rather than introduce me to someone/thing new. I want to make something I make when the weather is cold, the heart is warm and the outlook is unclear.

I want to make spaghetti, with meat sauce. I want to eat it in large portions accompanied with garlic bread oozing of garlic…and butter…and cheese. Lots of cheese. Lots of garlic. And wine. Ruby red wine. Bold, personable Italian wine. And cheese. But as Buddy would say, “more meeeeet” too, please!?

20140222-152928.jpgNo need for fuss to be fancy, just plate, eat, enjoy. I tuck in arugula so that I eat my greens too!

Spaghetti with Meat Sauce
Over the years I have refined my tomato sauce which is both versatile and handy to make in large batches. I keep 2-cup packages in the freezer for a large array of uses, but the main reason for doing this is to have on hand a quick avenue for making a reliable and predictable spaghetti. Simmered with good-quality ground beef, garlic, onions and red wine, the spaghetti feed is on and change can wait ’til another day.

INGREDIENTS (for tomato sauce)

1 TB olive oil
1 1/2 – 2 cups chopped onions
1 cup chopped carrots
4-6 cloves garlic, chopped and peeled
1 TB red wine vinegar
1 1/2 cups red wine
3 qty. 28 oz cans peeled whole tomatoes or diced, unsalted (preferably San Marzano)
2 TB tomato paste (from the tube, Napoleon double-concentrate or 1 small can)
20-30 grinds pepper
1 tsp red chili flakes
2 TB dry oregano
1 tsp each fresh thyme and rosemary
1/4 tsp allspice
1/4 cup fresh basil, chopped

sea salt to taste

MAKE THE TOMATO SAUCE

In a stock pot, sweat the onion, carrots and garlic in the olive oil until they are soft (approximately 10 minutes). Listen to them sizzle softly, without browning and reflect on the day.

Add the vinegar and cook for another minute before adding the wine. Breathe in the fragrance and exhale.

Now empty the tomatoes into the pot, stir. Take in the wonderful hue of red with your eyes and recall warm summer gardens brimming with plump, sweet tomatoes bursting from the vines.

Stir in the tomato paste and grind in the pepper. Feel the strength of your hands as the mill turns out the fiery black speckles.

Add in the chili flakes through the fresh basil, one spice at a time. Pause after each addition to appreciate the smell and imagine the taste that the spice will bring to the finished sauce. Tip the jar a little further or scoop the herb a little fuller if you feel more will improve the taste.

Bring the mixture to a rumbling simmer, turn down the heat and cover the pot. Let it simmer this way for 30 minutes, or so. Don’t go too far though, it will need attention and stirring. As you lift the lid to stir, breathe in the aromas, deep and slow. Break up the tomatoes with the back of your spoon, put the lid back on the pot and pour yourself a glass of wine.

After the 30 minutes, or so, remove the lid and continue to simmer, gently, for at least another hour, more if you desire. I usually go about my business attending to other things and keep it simmering away for several hours, adding the lid when it gets thicker than I want, and then removing the lid to thicken a little more.

I always, periodically, dip in a clean spoon to determine what adjustments I want to make, more pepper or chilies, more basil or wine? Sometimes I add salt and sometimes it isn’t needed; the brand of tomato used will play a role in this.

When the sauce is done, you can keep it chunky or use a small hand mixer to purée the sauce into a more even consistency. I like it somewhere in between even and chunky.

If you are making spaghetti, as I am tonight, begin preparing your meat while the sauce is developing flavor.

INGREDIENTS (for spaghetti)

Olive oil for browning the meat
1 1/2 lbs ground beef (I always use grass-fed)
1/2 tsp kosher salt
Fresh ground pepper
1 cup chopped onion
2-3 cloves chopped garlic
1 TB red wine vinegar
1 cup red wine
2 cups homemade tomato sauce

1/2 lb good quality spaghetti noodles (you could also use angel hair or linguini noodles)
Fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano for grating over

MAKE THE SPAGHETTI

It is important to bring the meat to room temperature before browning. Season with the salt and pepper, gently tossing and mixing the seasoning into the meat; let it sit covered for an hour.

To a hot, low-sided Dutch oven, add a little olive oil and tilt, covering the bottom of the pan with the oil. Add the meat, carefully breaking it up into a single layer as it drops in the pan. Enjoy the sound as it sizzles; this is a happier, more energetic sizzle than that of the onions.

Do not disturb the meat for at least 5 minutes. When you are able to stir without the meat sticking to the bottom of the pan, it is ready to be turned. Now is the time to add in the onions and garlic.

When the onions have softened and the meat has browned (8-10 minutes), add in the vinegar first, then the red wine. Breathe in again and exhale slowly. Close your eyes and feel the humidity wash over your face as the liquid evaporates into the air.

When the wine has reduced just a little, 5 minutes or so, add the tomato sauce, stir and bring to a simmer. Turn down the heat and cover. With the lid on, moisture stays in and it sweats out the flavor, which then seeps back in, tenderizing and deeply-flavoring the meat and the sauce. Lifting the lid is like seeing the inner workings of a factory in motion. I stir, feeling like an intruder interrupting a process fully under control.

The meat sauce can simmer this way for as little as an hour or as long as 5 hours (yes, I picked that number out of a hat). A slow-simmered sauce will deepen and develop as long as the heat is low and the sauce stays moist. This can be interrupted early for a weeknight meal or left to simmer all day for a casual weekend extravaganza; it will be deeply satisfying in either case.

When you are near-ready to eat, bring a pot of salted water to a hard boil, add the pasta and cook per the package directions. If the pasta is fresh, it will take less time than dried pasta. There are very-good quality dried pastas imported from Italy that are often better than the fresh pasta found at your local grocery store.

When the pasta is al dente, drain and drizzle with olive oil, toss and grate over some cheese.

TO SERVE

Using kitchen tongs, place a pile in the center of heated pasta bowls. Spoon over a large helping of meat sauce. Grate more cheese on top and serve with really good homemade garlic bread and a hearty glass of red wine.

The house will put off the most comforting of aromas and your tongue will be rewarded with an explosion of addictive flavor, predictable, but never boring.

20140222-162939.jpgCatherine is off to college next year…University of Richmond – love you Cat!

What do you cook when predictable provides comfort?

Heart to Heart

16 Sunday Feb 2014

Posted by in From the journals, the kitchen

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20140216-114748.jpgLove letters from the pups – including Tom! I am a lucky girl. (Buddy is confused about what year it is)

This year, for Valentine’s day, I decided to cook a repeat of the dinner I served Tom (and Buffy) our first Valentine’s day together, over twenty years ago. Simple, heart healthy and delicious. No over the top maneuvers, no interference from novice diners out, just us, at home, with candles, wine and swordfish.

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The first time I made this though was well before I met Tom. I had been living in Pioneer Square in a fabulous loft apartment. There was a rooftop terrace off my bedroom the size of my living room below. I had acquired three full grown potted trees from the woman who moved away next door and had just purchased my first propane grill. It was summer in Seattle and I wanted to have a barbecue.

I worked a few days a week at Umberto’s located just down the street. I popped over there to see if I could purchase some limes for the barbecue; I had forgotten to get them at the market. The chef and I got talking about how best to cook the swordfish I would be serving. He told me the best thing to do was marinate it in orange juice concentrate mixed with whole peppercorns, then wipe dry, rub with oil and grill to a nice medium-rare.

Then, without so much as a thought, he grabbed a stainless steel pan from the rack and began making me a sauce. First came the shallots, then fresh orange juice. All the while, we chatted about food and I watched as he worked swiftly and with great authority. Once the juice had cooked down, he poured in some cream and no more than 10 minutes later, I was sent away with a container of the most delicious sauce, a priceless memory and a great new addition to my repertoire.

GRILLED SWORDFISH WITH ORANGE CREAM SAUCE & MANGO SALSA

Although I was never given a written recipe, the sauce is adapted from a chef at Umberto’s twenty-some years ago (whose name, I sadly don’t recall). I have reduced the amount of cream from what I saw him use and Friday night I used Lemon Curd Greek yogurt from Ellenos, in the Pike Place Market (which, by the way, is unbelievably delicious and highly addictive) because I didn’t have cream.

I like to serve this with grilled haricot verts and roasted baby potatoes. I roast the potatoes in advance of cooking the fish and just heat on the grill as the swordfish is cooking. The haricot verts get treated to a toss in olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper; I grill them alongside the fish.

INGREDIENTS (for the sauce) – makes enough for four

1 tsp olive oil
1 TB chopped shallot
1 cup fresh orange juice
6-8 grinds fresh pepper
2 TB fresh lemon juice
1/8 cup heavy cream (or 3 dollops creamy Greek yogurt)

TO MAKE THE SAUCE

Sweat the shallots over low heat in olive oil until soft (2-3 minutes).

Pour in the orange and lemon juice, grind in the pepper.

Turn up the heat and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat and let simmer. Reduce liquid to 1/3 or so (it should begin thickening).

Add the cream and continue cooking until the sauce becomes thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Keep warm until you are ready to use.

INGREDIENTS (for mango salsa) – enough for four people

1/2 cup diced, fresh mango – skin removed
1-2 TB diced red onion – soaked in water
1 TB (or more, to taste) chopped jalapeño – seeds removed
2 TB fresh lemon juice
2 TB chopped cilantro
1/2 tsp sea salt
Fresh pepper
1/2 avocado, skin removed, diced (I didn’t have any this time but I usually like this in my salsa)

TO MAKE SALSA

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. Set aside at room temperature until ready to use.

INGREDIENTS (for swordfish)

Sea salt and fresh ground pepper for seasoning
6 oz swordfish steaks per person (I always get sashimi grade when possible, one inch thick)
Approximately 1 cup fresh orange juice (enough to cover swordfish)
Olive oil for grilling

TO COOK SWORDFISH

Season the fish with sea salt and many grinds of fresh pepper.

Place the fish in a Ziplock bag or a shallow bowl large enough to hold the fish in one layer. Pour in enough orange juice to cover (or cover part way and turn several times during marinade).

Let sit at room temperature for 1/2 hour while heating the grill.

Remove from the marinade, shaking off excess and transfer to a clean plate. Pour some olive oil over fish and rub to coat each side.

When the grill is hot, put the swordfish on and let sit undisturbed for 3-4 minutes until grill marks have formed and the fish removes freely from the grill without sticking.

Turn over and cook a few minutes more, depending on thickness. You can determine doneness by pressing the meat with your finger. The more well done, the denser and less give you will get when you press. It tastes best at medium rare, when the fish is mostly cooked through but still slightly pink in the center, very similar to a beef steak.

Serve over a pool of sauce, top fish with a spoonful of salsa.

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oh, I am a lucky girl!

APPETIZERS PART DUEX – HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU!

31 Tuesday Dec 2013

Posted by in From the journals, holidays, the kitchen

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Alright, let’s get right to this, we have a lot to do. It’s time to celebrate – out with the old and a toast (not of the bread variety) to new beginnings. Of course this also means food; good food, decadent but simple food, good-luck food, and the need to begin preparing food now! Where shall we start?!

Oysters are a brilliant beginning – I like them plump and small… Kushi, Kumamoto, Belon… whichever of these mollusks that you tend to prefer!

….and then there is duck… always a good idea this time of year. I love it crispy and tender.

Are you having a party, going out, or just staying put?

If you are having a party or just a few friends in (heck, even yourself, your partner and / or your pets), dig through the closets and pull out the glitter. We have an old box that Tom drags out each year, full of party hats, silver stars, noise makers and horns. It is in desperate need of replenishment (actually, replacement), but each year I wear my (somewhat tattered) tiara (at least for a bit), Tom switches it up between various ridiculous hats and Ginger wears a tiara of her own (Buddy is still skeptical of head gear but has a dapper black top hat that Ginger chewed on as a young pup). We blow wildly into horns that have been blown into for years before and dress up the table with decorations that have lived a full life but bring smiles and memories still.

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Since the goal is to make it past midnight, I like to keep the food coming and not too light or too little (Update 12/31 pm: Tom’s note: “frequently & filling”). Think of this as a dinner deconstructed, meant to last through the night. You can only eat so many puff pastries and dips before feeling the need to line up at Dick’s Drive-in (or insert favorite late night grub hub here) before going to bed.

NEW YEAR’S EVE NOSH, NIBBS and NABS – Below is a small sampling of some standard appetizers I might offer on a night such as this… depending on who will be joining, how many and when. Take inspiration from these or improvise, but whatever you do, grab a party hat, kiss someone at midnight, and ring in the New Year with cheer!

These descriptions are somewhat loose and informal (or I would be here all day with nothing to eat tonight); if you have questions or interest in further instruction, please feel free to give me a shout.

OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL WITH A CLASSIC MIGNONETTE.
I favor a classic mignonette to a traditional cocktail sauce with my oysters. These are great with a cold glass of bubbly or try a chilled sake instead.

Super easy to make, just mix 1 TB champagne (or rice wine) vinegar, 2 TB chopped shallot, 15 grinds black pepper, 2 TB chopped cilantro, a few dashes tabasco and a 1/4 cup champagne. Shuck the oysters before the guests arrive and have them sitting in their shell, over rock salt, on a platter (in the refrigerator until ready to serve). When you are ready to put them out, spoon a little mignonette sauce over each one, and garnish the platter with lemon wedges, cilantro and small bowls of the sauce; offer tiny forks too. They will go quickly so be ready with the next thing soon after.

TUNA TARTARE WITH MISO, AVOCADO & PICKLED GINGER

Using approximately 6-8 oz. of sashimi grade ahi tuna, cut into 1/8″ dice (work quickly and with a sharp knife so it stays cold). Put the tuna into a small bowl and sprinkle with sea salt & fresh ground pepper. Squeeze over the juice of 1 small lime wedge. Mix in 1 TB finely chopped pickled ginger, 2 TB finely diced avocado, 1 tsp finely chopped green onion, 1 tsp finely chopped cilantro, 1 TB miso sauce (recipe to follow) and a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds. Carefully mix together with a rubber spatula (so as not to squish the tuna). Chill, covered tightly with plastics wrap until ready to serve. When ready to serve, dollop a small bit of miso sauce onto fried won ton crisps and mound a small spoonful of tartare over top; garnish with mint (or better yet, shisho if you have access to this asian mint which I get at Uwajimaya). If you prefer, rather than using wonton wrappers, you could fill self-standing appetizer spoons with the tartare and set out on a platter for a more elegant presentation.

MISO SAUCE (you can also use this sauce for the pork tenderloin and / or toss it in with fresh Dungeness crab, finely chopped kumquats and cilantro; serve in endive spears).
To make the miso sauce: In a food processor, combine, 1 TB chopped fresh ginger, 1 TB rice wine vinegar, 1 TB mirin, 1 tsp chopped garlic, 2 TB light miso paste, and 1 egg yolk. With the motor running, add 2 TB hazelnut oil and 7 TB peanut oil. An easier option is to mix everything except for the egg yolk and oils with 1 cup of mayonnaise instead. Drizzle in a little of one or both of the oils for flavor.

DUCK WON TONS – WITH CITRUS SOY DIPPING SAUCE
I make this when I have leftover duck legs, but to be easy on myself when I want to make these and don’t have leftover duck, I buy a duck confit leg from Whole Foods, PCC, or Don & Joe’s in the Pike Place Market (confit of duck is available at many places that sell good food).

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Simply heat the leg so that it is soft enough to release the meat in shreds. Discard some, but not all, of the fat and all of the sinew. Place in a bowl, with the juice of 1/2 lime, a handful of cilantro, chopped, 1 tsp Sambal, 2 chopped fresh figs (or 1 Medool date if fresh figs are not available since the season is early Spring or late Fall; in Summer I use nectarines, and mango works too). Place a spoonful into the center of each won ton wrappers. Fold one corner over the filling making a triangle then fold the two bottom corners in to touch the top corner. Wet the edge with a dab of water and press to seal in the filling (keep a small bowl of water at your prep station with which to do this). Repeat until all of the filling is used. You will want to cook these sooner than later or the wraps will become soggy. Fry in peanut or canola oil; working in several batches and single layer, I use a stainless sauté pan or a wok. They can burn quickly so be sure to give them your full attention; they will need just a few minutes per side. Remove to tray lined with paper towel and sprinkle with sea salt. If you are cooking them early, they can be popped into the 375 degree oven to heat through when you are ready to serve (paper towel removed first).

SOY CITRUS DIPPING SAUCE
Simply whisk together 3 TB lime juice, 3 TB rice wine vinegar, 6 TB sake, 6 TB soy sauce, 1 tsp Sambal, 1 tsp honey. Or use twice this amount.

GRILLED COCONUT PRAWNS – MANGO DIPPING SAUCE
I am quite a big fan of fried coconut prawns, however, I always make wontons on New Year’s Eve so therefore, to cut down on fried stuff, this is a healthy compromise (not to mention easier to deal with for a large crowd from a small kitchen).

With the best quality prawns (or shrimp) you have available or can afford, peel and clean leaving the tail intact. Dry thoroughly with paper towels and drizzle lightly with olive oil and rub with a spoonful of the thick part of a can containing coconut milk (you can use the rest to make a sauce with and grilled chicken wings if you like). Mix in chopped garlic, grate over some lime zest and grind over fresh pepper. Grill over hot coals, propane or sear in a hot oiled wok. When they are slightly golden and the body begins to curl (a few minutes each side), transfer to a bowl, squeeze in fresh lime juice, sprinkle over toasted coconut shreds, and sea salt to taste. Serve alongside a bowl of mango dipping sauce.

MANGO DIPPING SAUCE
Too easy… just whiz in a blender, the meat of 1/2 a mango (depleted of skin), 1 tsp Dijon mustard, juice of 1 lemon wedge, 1 TB peanut oil and a little water to thin (start with 1 TB at a time). Adjust flavors and thickness as desired.  Go here to see another, longer version

HOISEN PORK TENDERLOIN SERVED SLICED, WARM and with CABBAGE LEAVES, SPICY MUSTARD & SESAME SEEDS
I make this almost every year, beginning with a party I threw when we lived on Queen Anne with a view of the Space Needle. It is a homemade version of barbecue pork and can be served as a dinner course or as an appetizer to feed a large crowd. If doing for a big party, I often make four tenderloins so I can keep replenishing the tray through the night as they cook. They could also be cooked in advance and warmed one by one or even serve chilled.

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In a zip lock freezer bag, mix 1/2 cup hoisin, 2 TB ketchup, juice of 1/2 a lemon, 1 chopped garlic clove, a handful of cilantro – chopped, 1 chopped green onion, 1 TB chopped fresh ginger, 1 tsp five-spice. Season one or two pork tenderloins with salt and pepper (I use my roasted pepper, sea salt and coriander mix). Add the pork to the bag of marinade and let sit one hour or up to two days before cooking. To cook, line a baking pan with aluminum foil large enough to fold over the top of the pork. Transfer pork and marinade mixture to the pan and cook at 350 degrees until internal temperature reads 160 degrees. This should take approximately 30 minutes during which time you should turn the pork once and cover with the foil if beginning to burn. Let sit to rest for 10 minutes then remove from the pan, leaving any sauce behind, slice thin and serve warm alongside prepared Chinese mustard (thinned with a little miso sauce if you have made some or perhaps a little crème fraîche if you like, a plate of sesame seeds and hoisin diluted with lemon juice. Offer napa cabbage leaves on the side or assemble pretty pork cabbage cups instead.

20131231-142701.jpg…and again, hope for those kitchen cleaning elves!

Let them eat (crab) cake!

27 Friday Dec 2013

Posted by in From the journals, holidays, the kitchen

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Everyone likes a good (crab) cake (well anyone who likes crab that is…and for those that don’t, they will probably like cake, although they might have to look elsewhere for that. You can’t please them all). Finding a good crab cake is not as easy as it might seem. Often they are riddled with much more breadcrumb than crab, squishy, mushy and bland. I have figured them out though, quite some time ago, and crab cakes continue to be one of my favorite things to make for a (small) crowd. I have deviated from my most basic method on more than one occasion by trying to introduce interesting flavors and flares of creativity but, let’s face it, some things are just not to be messed with, period. So, the basics shall remain and the creativity might come in the sauce or the presentation; which, in itself could be subject for a book. For now though, I’m keeping it simple. Plus red(ish) and green. For the holidays!

BASIC CRAB CAKES

So, if you are wondering if it is worth the added effort of shelling your own crab – it is! If you are one that can delegate, this is a good task to delegate to those asking for a task. I, always being short on time, and particularly bad at delegating, often opt to buy the crab meat rather than the whole crab, but, the outcome does then suffer. Not to say this is a bad way to go (but before it goes into the seafood case, it does come out of a can); just saying that if you have the time and want the best, buy the crab, freshly cooked, cleaned and still in it’s shell. I know that’s how I’m gonna roll going forward! I do have Gemini close by – home of the BFC’s (Big Fat Crab)!

INGREDIENTS

Freshly shucked meat from 1 dungeness crab (approximately 1lb meat)
1 TB chopped green onion (mostly white part)
2 TB chopped roasted red pepper
1 TB chopped fresh herbs (I sometimes use cilantro and thyme, today it was micro-celery greens which I highly recommend, in which case omit the celery)
1 TB finely chopped celery
The juice from 1 large lemon wedge (Meyer if possible)
A grind or two fresh pepper
2-3 shakes from container of Old Bay Seasoning
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 TB crème fraîche or Wildwood aioli
A few shakes Tabasco sauce

Part of one beaten egg

1/4-1/2 cup (or less) Panko, plus more to coat cakes with

Roasted red pepper mustard sauce
Greens for garnish

PREP

Other than the quality of the crab, the next most important thing to do, for a successful cake, is to
s q u e e z e out all of the moisture before you begin. I use paper towels for this; cheese cloth is even better but I seldom actually have cheese cloth around.

Once the crab is depleted of excess water, place it into a bowl, just big enough to hold it until you are ready to mix everything together.

20131227-153157.jpgIn a medium sized bowl, mix the green onion, red pepper, herb, celery, lemon juice, pepper, mustard, aioli or crème fraîche, Old Bay and Tabasco.

20131227-153456.jpgAdd the crab, stirring carefully with a rubber spatula, so as to keep the chunks intact.

Taste and adjust the seasoning before adding the egg. Add 1/2 – 3/4 of the whisked egg and 1/4 cup of the panko, adding more in small quantities as needed. You will want to have enough crumb to hold the mixture together without excess moisture. I like to add as little panko as possible (which will result in a purer flavor). Once satisfied with the mix, form into rolls with the palm of your hand. You can make them as big as you like but the larger they are, the fewer the quantity. I like mine on the smaller side so more of it is coated with the crispy brown crumb when sautéed.

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As you form the rolls, cup them tightly in your palms and squeeze out the excess moisture again (which will partly be egg). Be sure they are tightly packed together as you pat the shape into an organic round ball.

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When all of the mix is formed, set out a plate of panko and press each ball into the panko, lightly and with care so as not to flatten too much; do this with both sides.

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Cover in plastic and let chill in the refrigerator for an hour before cooking.

COOK

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat a pan (I use my copper core stainless steel All Clad) and add enough peanut oil (or canola, or olive – in that order) to just cover the bottom with enough to slide slightly around. The pan should be big enough to let each cake sit without being crowded or you should do this step in separate batches. When the oil is quite hot but not smoking, add the cakes and let brown; approximately 2-3 minutes. Turn them over to brown on the opposite side. You want them to be golden, not black and not pale. Adding a slight bit more oil if required but keep a close eye. When browned on two sides, transfer the cakes to a pan (I use a pizza pan) and finish cooking in the oven until warmed through. If you like, and it is more convenient, you may brown them up to an hour in advance, set onto the pan on the counter until the guests have arrived and each has received their cocktails. Pop them into the oven for somewhere between 8-10 minutes. Serve at once while still hot, on a platter or on individual plates (with garnish and, of course, sauce). Since it was handy (and red), I decided to use my roasted red pepper mustard sauce this time.

…and for breakfast – Crab Cakes with Poached Egg and Hollandaise

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Uneaten cakes will do well for your breakfast. I often hold back a few to cook fresh the next morning but heated or just cooked, either way, they taste great topped with a poached egg and a vast variety of sauces. Hollandaise is quick and easier than you might think, so I usually do that.

To my emptied, but un-wiped “magic bullet” jar that I made the pepper sauce in (or food processor fresh and unused), I add 2 TB clarified butter hot off the stove to one egg yoke. Whiz this together and then put it back to the (little) saucepan used to make the clarified butter (for added zip and a little heat, add a pinch of chipotle chile powder). Heat the pan over low and add an ice cube to keep the sauce from becoming too thick while the eggs poach. Top a crab cake with a poached egg and spoon over the sauce. A few breakfast potatoes are also quite nice to go alongside but a salad garnish is simple, healthy and crisp.

20131227-155456.jpg Buddy, uh, what happened to the bacon (Did I mention the bacon; that was for Tom)?

Traditionally, non-traditional

30 Saturday Nov 2013

Posted by in beach mode, From the journals

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Most people would describe me as someone who is more likely to break the rules than follow them; life sure seems to be more interesting that way. Surprisingly though, I do tend to be conventional, except when I am not. Thanksgiving is one of those exceptions.

Growing up, Thanksgiving was an extravagant holiday in our house, as I’m sure it was in the homes of most around me. They are memories that I will always cherish. My Mom got up at the crack of dawn to make m sure we had a fully glutenous meal. In the evening, she wore her hair in an up-do that made her look like a movie star. We dressed up in long skirts of velvet and lace, with the men in proper suits of leisure. As I grew older though and went off on my own, I never really took to cooking Thanksgiving dinner, although I still held the holiday to be special. My first turkey was a disaster, despite desperate calls for intervention from “the Moms.” Tom happily snacked away on the shrimp dip served with Nabisco Wheat Thins while I flailed around in the tiny kitchen. The recipe was passed down from my Mom and immortalized in the pages of my first, and only, cookbook effort, Junior Achievers Cook.

As the years passed and I became more obsessed with food and cooking, Thanksgiving came to feel more like a chore than a celebration. I know it seems that I would embrace this kind of cooking, but I became less and less impressed with the effort-to-result-ratio (not to mention the ratio of food to plate). My sister-in-law Christine and I use to joke that we were just going to fly in Lucky Wishbone fried chicken the following year and skip all the fuss. We never did though, and each year it would take place all over again.

Tom and I decided to take tradition into our own hands and move the holiday south, and off the Mainland. We have abandoned turkey (except in a sandwich on the beach the day after) and replaced it with fresh-caught fish instead. This year it was opah, which was so fresh it felt as if we had pulled it from the sea ourselves (luckily not, visions of Tom flailing about in sea is not a good thought). But, cooked under the stars with the waves crashing to shore just 20 feet away, smells of salt and sand mixed happily with the smokey perfume of the fire. If you have never cooked over coals on the beach, this is something not to be missed.

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(All that dark behind the flash is ocean, honest)

I made a simple stuffing earlier in the day along with fresh green beans, cooked just-barely, then tossed with olive oil, lemon and almonds. I admit, I bought the fresh cranberry sauce this year as I usually make my own while the stuffing cooks (in between sips of Prosecco and bites of breakfast). The whole dinner, plates, utensils, food and all, fit perfectly into a small plastic file tub that also acts as a great side table in the sand.

The sun had been so orange and solid tonight that as it set, it felt as if a whole universe had disappeared before our eyes, right into the sea. The sky lit up colors of purple and red, casting light well into the evening.

Up and down the shore, families were walking back from dinner at the neighboring hotels. We settled into our usual spot, surrounded by all the comforts we could ask for, poured a cocktail and enjoyed an array of vegetables so fresh that nothing else was needed to kick-off our dinner; no nut-crusted cheese-balls, cheese cubes, crackers, shrimp dip, or parades and football on TV.

As the colored sky faded, we began to notice rhythmic lights as more families streamed by (or was it just clumsy walking in the sand?).

Cocktails turned to wine and the charcoal went from cold to hot.
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Sparks spat up like fireworks as if to acknowledge both Thanksgiving and Tom’s birthday all at once. I filled our plates, just enough, sat back and enjoyed a most exceptional meal. It is not the turkey that makes Thanksgiving, it’s the moments and relationships that we are thankful for.
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Beach stuffing (for two, as long as critters don’t show up, but that’s another story from another time)

INGREDIENTS

3 French brioche rolls, torn into bite size pieces

1/4 lb bulk hot Italian sausage

1 very small leek, stems removed, cleaned and sliced
3 crimini mushrooms, stems removed, diced
1 celery stick, diced
3 baby carrots, diced (1/8 cup)

1 egg (fresh from the island), whisked

Fresh thyme (3-4 twigs worth, twig removed)
Sea salt (duh) and fresh pepper to taste
Tomato juice or chicken stock to moisten

1 cup sliced kale

PREP

In a low oven, dry the brioche – but don’t burn
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Brown the sausage in a sauté pan, no oil needed, set aside.

Sauté, in the same pan with olive oil over medium low heat, the leeks, mushrooms, celery and carrots (approximately 5 minutes). Remove from heat and add the sausage back; then the whisked egg, salt/pepper and liquid (just enough to moisten).
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Transfer the whole deal to a buttered casserole dish (notice how I found a sweet one in Gramps’ Hawaiian cabinets dating back to my youth (so classic Mom)!  Add the kale and gently mix.
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Cook in a 350 degree oven for about 10 minutes. This will cook through all the contaminates (health dept. warning) allowing the finishing touch to occur on the beach grill.

COOK

Once at the beach, with fire heating up, but not yet Rocket hot, put the dish on the grill covered with foil. It will be hot enough, left covered sitting in a shallow bit of sand for the duration needed to sear the fish, whilst heating the beans (in foil pack),

Finish the night with a shot of espresso (in those l’il metal old school Italian stovetop makers), boiled on the hot coals and a bite of dark chocolate; no pie required.

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(Published from the beach. Ahhhhh, technology.)

I never learn (will I ever learn?)

26 Saturday Oct 2013

Posted by in From the journals, the kitchen

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Isn’t it funny how you can learn so quickly not to put your hand on a hot stove after doing it once, but no matter how many times the waitress tells you that the plate is hot, you can’t help but touch it? In my case, I counterintuitively touch the plate to prove that it isn’t actually hot – to me. After working in restaurants for long enough, your hands become immune to scalding temperatures, but let’s face it, the plate is rarely as hot as they make it out to be. But then, sometimes it is….

One of my biggest deficiencies in the learning my lessons department (or should I say one of my many?) is letting too many things fall into my grocery basket. Now this isn’t actually a problem with most items since they can range from charcuterie, that will always get nibbled, to pickled figs that have a long pantry life. Other than creating dents in my bank account, which I am accustomed to ignoring, no real damage has been done. However, when I visit my favorite fish market, Gemini, I often walk away with more seafood than I can eat before it goes bad. Seafood is not something that can hang out in the ice box too long without acting up. No matter how many times going in (to Gemini) telling myself to keep my eye on the prize, I end up walking away with three fish in the basket and a few more in my bag.

I am not one to waste food and it especially makes me mad if a perfectly good trout had to give up it’s life just to be tossed away. If I find myself having bought an extra rack of lamb on impulse, along with more meat than days to eat it prior to expiration, I can always treat it to a little deep freeze and enjoy it another time. I can’t do this with seafood. Not only would it kill the clams along with the whole point of cooking them live in the first place, but would also ruin the sole purpose of buying, just in, fresh scallops rather than the readily available frozen variety.

Although I eat most anything, my eating habits are finicky. I can crave sashimi one day and feel like fried chicken the next (as you might have noted in my recent post). Luckily, Buddy and Ginger came up with a nifty solution on such occasions; they offered to eat anything that we didn’t. Of course, they trust we will not let them eat anything harmful to their health, such as grapes or onions.

Most recently I found myself with 1 1/2 lbs of clams, 4 fresh East Coast sea scallops and a beautiful chunk of Hawaiian big-eye tuna, all requiring immediate attention (I had in fact eaten the salmon I meant only to buy in the first place) . It was fairly late on a Monday night, so a five-course meal was probably not a good idea. Although not a bad one either.

I seared one scallop for each of us (Ginger and Buddy included). Lot’s of butter under Tom’s and mine but the other two left near the side of the pan to keep within the non-harmful range of the butter as promised.

The tuna was still lovely and odor-free but I didn’t trust eating it raw anymore; wrapped it up in foil and 7 minutes in the hot oven left a scent that perked Ginger and Buddy right up, noses sniffing and circling around the kitchen like a couple of sharks (we joke that’s what they should be for Halloween). They knew the smell meant the tuna was for them. Tom and I ate the clams all by ourselves, right down to the last bit of sauce; sopped up with the last crust of our bread.

STEAMED CLAMS WITH BACON, POTATOES AND JALAPEÑO

This is quite the best time of year for clams and this batch was particularly perfect. I love it when they are little but plump, just as I prefer my oysters; clean, powerful flavor without all the extra gunk (you know, that stringy unpleasant stuff)!

A crusty baguette and fresh greens tossed in a simple vinaigrette of chopped shallots, Grenache vinegar and good quality olive oil rounds out the meal.

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 lbs steamer clams

1 medium-large gold potato, 1/4″ diced, cooked in salted water until just tender, drained

2 slices, thick-cut bacon cut into 1/4″ slices
1 small jalapeño, stems and seeds removed, chopped
1 or 2 tomatoes (dependent on your affinity for tomatoes), stems removed, diced
1 small, sweet onion, chopped (you might end up with 1/2 cup or more)
1tsp smoked paprika (for a smokey flavor)
The juice of a medium lemon
1 cup white wine (plus more for your glass)

Approximately 1/4 cup fresh cilantro or parsley, chopped
Butter, as much as you dare, or none if you don’t! (I dare a few knobs (+/- 2TB))

2 deep pasta bowls in the warming drawer and an extra bowl for shells.

PREP

COOK THE POTATOES as described above and GATHER the rest of your ingredients.

If you have purchased your clams a day or two in advance (oops) it is best to store them on a sheet pan in a single layer, uncovered in the fridge so that they may breathe rather than suffocate shamelessly in a plastic bag. RINSE THE CLAMS AND SOAK THEM in cold water, fortified with a tablespoon or so of cornmeal (this helps them to shed their debris). You can do this several hours beforehand and leave in the fridge until ready to cook.

COOK

In a large sauté pan, PLACE the CUT BACON into the pan and TURN TO MEDIUM HEAT. When cooked through and beginning to crisp, ADD jalapeño, tomato, onion and smoked paprika. After a minute or so, ADD the clams.

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Meanwhile and simultaneously, BROWN the potatoes in butter over medium-high heat. They are soft already so the high heat coupled with butter will act quickly to turn them from pale to a light shade of brown. When the potatoes form a slight bit of crust without burning, TOSS THEM IN WITH the clams and shake the pan to combine. In a minute or two SQUEEZE in the lemon, then pour in the wine (but not from your glass). The pan will want to recuperate from these additions to regain it’s heat; once bubbling, COVER THE PAN and let it SIMMER for 5-7 minutes or until the clams open their shell.

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As the clams open, REMOVE THEM with tongs to their serving bowls. TURN UP THE HEAT on the remaining sauce and ADD THE HERBS, along with an optional knob (yes, that is a technical kitchen term) of butter. After a minute or two, the sauce will thicken slightly. LADLE the sauce over the clams, warming them and leaving a pool of liquid to sop up with the crusty bread.

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This whole effort goes by very quickly and will reward you with what seems like a laborious feast without all the labor.

Resurrecting the Past

05 Saturday Oct 2013

Posted by in From the journals, the kitchen

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I remember when I was a young child, thinking that my parents were so old and wise. Now I am older than they were when I was that child and I realize that I am still young, wiser than I used to be but with so much more to learn and much left to explore.

I remember then, riding my bike to the Quik Stop and spending all my loot on comic books, candy necklaces and other sugary things. I loved to read about Betty, Veronica, Archie, Jughead and Richie Rich, and on Saturday mornings I always watched Scooby Doo.

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Life is so fast that sometimes I wake up wondering when I went from being that little kid to who I am now? When I pick up one of my journals to read about what I had been doing at the same time last season, I am often surprised to find myself reading about seasons from years previous that feel as familiar as if they were occurring today. Sometimes however, I am reminded of things I had long past forgotten. I like to read about what I was doing, thinking and cooking then because I am often so busy now that I forget to slow down, savor the moments and always find time to cook. Cooking brings me back to center. I sometimes forget that, especially after a particularly long, hectic day but when I remember, the day never seems quite so long.

Last Friday night I was the last one to leave the office and the week had already been particularly long. For us, Friday night is usually steak night but we did not have steak. So instead, I decided to make beef stew. Now, I thought to myself, how is this easier than driving to the store to get steak? I ignored this thought and decided to pull out the pressure cooker to speed up the process. I am so glad I did because in a short while the house filled with an aroma so delicately proclaiming it to be fall and so assuredly reminding me to cook!

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I opened one of my journals this morning (volume #2) and flipped the pages to find fall of 2002. One of the inserts was a recipe for veal, leek and potato stew. I remember it well. Simple and satisfying, I made this on a weeknight not ever having made stew before or even knowing how it should be done. It became one of my husband’s favorites but in looking at it now, I realize my process was far too complicated to follow even though it hadn’t seemed at all complicated that first time that I made it. The stew I made last Friday combines simplicity with flavor and although I used a pressure cooker to shorten the time, I would recommend letting it “stew” instead, especially if you find yourself hanging at home on a blustery afternoon. Veal most certainly is less assertive in flavor and softer on the palette which I find to be more complimentary to the herbs and if using the veal, use white wine versus red (for beef). The pressure cooker retains the moisture so if you like it to be thick, reduce the amount of liquid by about half of a cup. It will thicken overnight however so either way you can’t go wrong.

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VEAL OR BEEF, POTATO & LEEK STEW

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 lb good quality beef top sirloin or veal leg, cut into 1/2″ dice
Flour for dredging
Sea salt/ fresh pepper for seasoning
Olive oil for browning
Vermouth or Madeira for deglazing (vermouth for veal, Madeira for beef)

Olive oil for sautéing
2 celery stalks, diced
A handful of mushrooms (crimini, shiitake or portobello), chopped- optional
1 large leek, cleaned and sliced
1/2 cup chopped carrots

2-3 cloves chopped garlic
2-3 Fresh tomatoes, cored and diced

1 cup wine ( white for veal, red for beef- only a suggestion, not a rule)
2 cups beef broth or water (if using water, add a big spoonful of Demi-glacé (you can add more liquid if it becomes to thick).
2- 3 TB chopped fresh tarragon (if using veal it is nice to mix in some dill- don’t worry too much about measuringo this; more or less won’t hurt).

4 medium sized potatoes (I use gold potatoes most of the time for this) cleaned, skin on, cut into bite size chunks

1 cup carrots cut into bite size pieces. (Buddy and ginger like this part and usually test them to make sure they are fresh)

Whole small garden carrots or large sweet carrots cut in long pieces for garnish – optional (add these to the pot with the bite size carrots and remove with tongs when they are done- set aside for garnish- again, this is optional

1-2 TB Lemon juice if using veal, Grenache vinegar or red wine vinegar if using beef- again, suggestion, not rule

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PREP

SEASON meat with salt & pepper (approx 1 tsp salt and enough pepper to be noticeable on the meat). Then DREDGE meat in flour shaking off excess. If time permits, let the meat rest on the counter for an hour before or after this process so that it comes to room temperature.

GATHER the vegetables you have already prepped from the list above
To have at the ready when you begin to cook.

COOK

HEAT a sauté pan and put in 1 to 2 TB olive oil (I don’t usually measure this but instead pour it in until I see that it will nicely coat the pan. When it is hot enough to move freely around the pan when tilted, ADD the meat to the pan. Ideally the meat will be room temperature so as to brown rather than steam. Let it sit in the pan, uninterrupted until browned on one side. Then with tongs or a spatula, carefully turn and repeat until it is browned on all sides. DEGLAZE the pan with a wine glass pour of vermouth or Madeira and scrape up the good bits left stuck to the bottom of the pan. TRANSFER the contents to a pot (that the stew will be cooked in) or to a pressure cooker, if using, and wipe the pan clean.

In the same sauté pan, REPEAT THE PROCESS with the oil and ADD the celery, mushrooms, leeks and chopped carrot. SAUTÉ over medium low heat stirring frequently until they begin to soften. For me this usually occurs after 10 minutes.

ADD the garlic and tomatoes. STIR and let cook for a minute then POUR in the wine and let it reduce for about 10 minutes over medium low heat. TRANSFER this to the pot or pressure cooker.

ADD the broth and the tarragon. Now there are choices. Either TURN THE HEAT DOWN and PUT THE LID ON so the goods SIMMER for the next hour, with periodic oversight and stirring. Or, POP THE POT INTO THE OVEN, preheated to 350 degrees (lid on as well) and let cook, peeking in once and again. Either way, it will be wise of you to use your judgement as to what level of liquid should be left. I like my stew thick so I only add more if it feels like all will evaporate leaving burnt pieces stuck to the pan. The stew will mostly begin to thicken when we add the potatoes, so hold off too much judgement until then.

IF YOU ARE USING PRESSURE COOKER, turn it to high heat and set timer for 10 minutes.

After an hour or so, ADD the potatoes to the pot. Continue to cook until the meat is tender and the potatoes are cooked through. For me this is usually another 45 minutes or so.

IF YOU ARE USING PRESSURE COOKER, add the potatoes and set timer for 5 minutes more, high heat again. After which you will add the bite sized carrots and let them soften by keeping it at a simmer. The rest of the instruction translates the same as below.

ADD the bite size carrots and let them cook another 15 minutes. At this point, it is wise to make an assessment of consistency, flavor and tenderness. I like to mash around some of the potatoes so that it adds texture to the consistency. I am fine with the carrot bite being quite soft so I usually let it ride for a while if I have no urgency to eat. The longer it cooks, the more flavorful it is, hence the name “stew”. The addition of a little milk doesn’t hurt for thickening and by all means adjust the level, of salt, up or down. If too salty, add water and let it cook down. The addition of a little lemon squeeze or vinegar will help round things out nicely – this one is personal so feel free to experiment.

I like to dish this up in white pasta bowls with some nice crusty bread. If you garnish it with the whole carrots as mentioned above in the ingredients list, you will transform what might otherwise look like a brown glop into a more elegant presentation.

Leftovers are the best – I didn’t take a photo of our dinner but below is Tom’s lunch during the week. He is fine with the brown glop – it’s the taste that matters?!

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This week was busier than last so feeling good at the dinner table is important in refueling for the next busy day. Tom was particularly happy with our meals this week and I got many accolades from the pups. I have not had time to write about those meals but one of the highlights was roast chicken. I will have to talk to you about this sometime because I have gotten pretty good at turning out a tasty bird; which had not always been the case.

Fall is in the air so stay tuned for more comfort food… I did get a request for apple cider so I might try to squeeze that one in soon – yes, pun intended.

Forgive me my manners

29 Sunday Sep 2013

Posted by in cooking basics, From the journals, the kitchen

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What kind of food blogger would I be without feeding you? It is Sunday morning and time for brunch so let’s begin with that… You’ll be seeing brunch in many upcoming posts; it is by far one of my most rewarding meals to cook. Sometimes it ends up being my large snack before preparing dinner!

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When my husband and I were first dating, he requested hash browns for breakfast. I had never made hash browns and was unsure how to even deal with the potatoes. I tried several methods of cutting the potatoes, shredding and chopping; I precooked the potatoes and sautéed them raw. I never really achieved his interpretation of hash browns (although the potato cakes rosti come very close) but this is the version of potato that we use most often at breakfast and I do believe they are his favorite. These work equally well for dinner and are especially good with the addition of herbs, garlic or both. They do okay sitting for an hour or so but the longer they sit before being heated to serve, the more soggy they will become (this is not a bad thing but I don’t recommend trying to heat them longer than needed or they will become burnt, rather than crisp, on the outside and dry, rather than soft, in the middle). I find it best to make them in advance of your egg dish (or whatever they are accompanying) and keep them warm on your lowest heat setting on the stove; I keep mine on simmer and it keeps it just warm but not continuing to cook faster than I can prepare the rest on the meal.

PREP
USING 1 medium sized Yukon gold potato per person CUT INTO ¼” SLICES then each slice into ¼” julienne and then into ¼” cube.

PUT THESE CUBES into a saucepan of salted water and bring to just a boil.

REMOVE FROM HEAT AND STRAIN shaking out excess water.

THIS CAN BE DONE SEVERAL HOURS IN ADVANCE (if you have a doggie in the house, this is a healthy snack to offer them – no butter yet- just fresh, par-boiled potatoes. Ginger and Buddy know that I always save a few cubes for them to snack on before brunch).

COOK

MELT a good knob of butter (approx 1 TB per each two-three medium potatoes; more or less depending on the condition of your heart and your affinity for butter) over high heat until the butter stops bubbling. Add the potatoes and give the pan a shake to coat them all with a little of the butter. TURN DOWN THE HEAT TO MEDIUM.

COOK STIRRING EVERY ONCE AND AGAIN but leave them to sit alone undisturbed for several minutes at a time; this allows them to brown. You will eventually turn the heat down to low, depending on how hot your stove is. Once they have browned you want them to cook slowly so that the inside can soften nicely without burning the outside. On my stove, this occurs typically 5 minutes into the sauté and takes, on average, another 10 minutes or so to achieve the degree of doneness I desire. As I mentioned above, toward the end of the cooking, I turn my stove to simmer and let them finish off very slowly while I get the rest of my meal together; this buys me about 20 more minutes to round everything up. ALTERNATIVELY, you could serve right away or if still prepping other things, take them from the heat completely for an hour or so and reheat in a 400 degree oven or on the stove top on med high heat; again, the fresher served the better.

Mine are almost ready so I’m off to cook my eggs…