Leftover-ish: A Frittata

07 Sunday Apr 2019

Tags

best frittata for guests, Brunch, Ina Garten's roasted broccoli

I’m not the biggest fan of leftovers.

That’s no surprise, seeing that I change my mind about what to eat on any given day, even after going to the store to get the ingredients.

I guess I can’t make that statement wholesale since I have been known to eat cold pizza without even bothering to close the refrigerator door, or scoop a few spoons of black beans from their container for a quick snack, or polish off the little corner of hamburger I saved myself from eating the night before (Tom always tucks it into a wrap of plastic for me, just in case).

Yet still, I can’t get behind true leftovers. The kind that you reheat and eat for lunch the next day, or worse, for dinner that week, dumped hastily onto a plate and barely resembling the lovely meal it used to be in its’ prime and throwing it into the microwave.

Maybe it’s because I know how good it looked when it came right out of the oven and now, sitting there in the fridge, it just looks cold and pale? Maybe even a little sad. Or maybe it’s because the tantalizing smell that came from the nights before are now silenced sitting in the cool air, picking up the neighboring smells?

Well, I guess that can’t be entirely true since I have already admitted to the pizza thing…

Perhaps I just like to eat something new?

I mean, I do like it if it is leftoverish…

Lefoverish:

/ˈleftˌōvər ish/

noun

Leftovers made into something new; Remaining surplus redefined

The steak and broccoli from dinner were made into a leftoverish frittata.

adjective

Made from partially used ingredients

This delicious steak and broccoli fritatta is leftoverish.

Even though this frittata is leftoverish, its’ leftovers can be disguised as new. Just heat and serve neatly on a plate with freshly-dressed greens. Frittata is a leftover even I can get behind. In fact, going against my usual judgement, we might need to have it as a true leftover today. Well, leftoverish, I’ll need to make another fresh salad!

Steak & Roasted Broccoli Frittata

You begin by whisking eggs, yogurt, blue cheese and pepper in a medium bowl (break in some chunks of cheddar cheese slices or grate some into the mix as well).

Then, you chop the broccoli, potato and steak up a bit into smallish chunks.

Your prep area will look something like this.

Next, warm the olive oil over medium heat in a non-stick pan and add the potatoes, then broccoli and steak. Stir and let it warm up a bit.

Notice my super-cool, non-stick Green Pan from Food 52.

Next comes the egg mixture poured over top. We are looking to let it set up a little before transferring to the oven. Use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides a bit, keeping the egg mixture intact.

When the frittata has cooked halfway (around 5 minutes in), crumble the rest of the cheese over top and finish cooking.

When the frittata is fully set and cooked through, which should take about 10 minutes in a 350-degree oven, let it rest for 5 minutes, covered. You could also transfer it to a warming drawer until you have gathered up the guests and set a proper table.

Cut it into wedges, and if you feel fancy, serve it alongside a pile of Spring greens dressed lightly with lemon juice and olive oil. Pea vines are a nice addition if you are doing this in the Springtime.

Voila! Leftoverish steak and broccoli frittata.

Frit-ta-ta…ta…ta..ta
I’m dreaming of frittata..ta…ta…ta in my Spring sunbeam…

Wake up Zoe, it’s time to eat!

Don’t worry Ginger, we will save you a bite.

Steak & Roasted Broccoli Fritatta

To make this proper leftoverish fare, you will want to prepare a dinner using the recipe for Ina Garten’s genius, roasted broccoli which you can find here. It is a great accompaniment to steak and roasted potatoes. In fact, we had that for dinner on Friday night (which you too should consider if you want this frittata to be as leftoverish as mine). I didn’t use 4 lbs of broccoli, instead I used 2 small bundles of fresh, local, purple, sprouted broccoli. That is not important here; you can use whatever you want as long as you have about 3 oz of leftover broccoli. You can probably even get away with not using the pine nuts or even the parmesan for the broccoli, but those sure do make them delicious!

Author: Stacey Bender
Prep Time: 10 miniutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: -25929180.383333 minute
Yield: 4 servings
Category: Brunch

Ingredients

6 eggs

2 TB full-fat yogurt

1 oz bleu cheese (separated into 1/4 oz and 3/4 oz mounds)

Fresh ground black pepper to taste

4 baby potatoes, roasted (3 oz)

3 oz roasted broccoli (with garlic, lemon, pinenuts and parmesan)

2 3/4 oz grilled steak (leftover or freshly cooked. I used tenderloin but you can use any steak you like).

1 oz cheddar cheese

2 tsp (ish) olive oil

Instructions

Whisk the eggs, yogurt, 1/4 oz blue cheese and pepper in a medium bowl.
Chop the broccoli, potato and steak up a bit into smallish chunks.
Break the cheddar cheese slice into pieces over the egg mixture (or shred it into the bowl if using a chunk of cheese), stir.
Warm the olive oil over medium heat in a non-stick pan.
Add the potatoes first and let cook a few minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the broccoli and steak and cook for an additional few minutes, stirring.
Add the egg mixture and let cook a minute or two to set. Use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides a bit, keeping the egg mixture intact.
Transfer pan to 350-degree oven and let cook for 5 minutes.
Crumble the remaining blue cheese and cheddar cheese over top and let cook an additional 10 minutes.
Scrape the outside edge with a rubber spatula to loosen from pan and let sit (covered or in a warming drawer) for 5 minutes. This is a good time to prepare more drinks, setting up plates and start corralling people to the table.
Cut into pie wedges.

Notes

You could also freeze the cooked frittata to eat a few weeks later (gasp….yes, you really can).

The cheddar cheese I used was an organic, pre-sliced. I just tore it up and tossed it in the mix. I liked to leave some out to add 5 minutes in to cooking along with the blue cheese but it isn’t a necessary step.

Lamb Belly Breakfast Pizza (slash) Gyro

18 Saturday Mar 2017

Posted by Stacey Bender in the kitchen

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

breakfast, Breakfast pizza, Brunch, Eggs, Gyro, Karam's garlic sauce, Rain Shadow Meats

p_runny yolk.jpg

Imagine this:

You step outside your office into a crisp, rain-driven evening. A quick walk around the corner and through the cobbled square leaves you standing in front of a door, that once inside, is like a glimpse into past meets present; a fabulous butcher shop (slash) hip, industrial luncheonette. It is Friday night, so the bustling lunch has transitioned to the traditional tasks of cutting meat and doing business. Stepping out of the rain as you remove the fashionable hat shielding the wet from your head, the cool air, all at once, turns warm and inviting, and better yet, dry!

There is a woman standing in front of the counter. She has dark hair pulled back into a ponytail and is wearing a Seattle-stylish outfit in gray and black, tall boots, smart hat and long tailored jacket with just enough sluff to be part of the casual, fun crowd. She is having a conversation with the tall, boyishly charming, young man who is behind the counter. He is slicing a beautifully marbled slab of beef into delicate, thin slices, effortlessly as if he is entertaining a guest at a dinner party. They know each other, you imagine, as their conversation is friendly and familiar.

The man briefly looks up and you are greeted, by name. You smile and turn to the women to ask her what she will be making with her slices of steak? “Stir fry,” she says. “What is the cut of meat you are slicing?” the women asks the man. “The Denver cut,” he replies. You had never heard of that cut prior to visiting Rain Shadow Meats but had considered buying it the week previous, settling on the thick rib-eye instead.

He wraps up the woman’s package and effortlessly begins preparing another as the conversation continues. You occupy yourself by eyeing the glass case, carefully assessing each plate of meat and pulling menus together in your head.

As the woman finishes up and pays for her packages, she finishes her story and tells the man that she will see him again soon. With that, she gathers up her goods and shoots you a quick smile before dashing out the door into the night.

Russ turns his smile to you and has already guessed as to what you will choose first. It is the steak sitting in the corner of the case, looking so enticing with it’s perfect coat of preserved lemon and parsley protecting the tender meat within. You have gotten this before and have come back more than once for more.

“It is the Denver cut this time,” he discloses, “not the ounglet” (the onglet is your favorite).

“I will take two” you reply.

“You won’t be disappointed.” he assures you, and you know you won’t be.

As you finish up your order and are about to check-out, you notice something you hadn’t seen before; lamb bacon. With breakfast in mind, you were going to ask for pork bacon but after a quick chat with Russ and then yourself, you decide you need to try the lamb bacon while it was in supply. Russ says they either have plenty or none; they make it in-house and when they run out, it can be awhile before they have more.

Russ says it starts out tasting of bacon then turns to a unique flavor instead. It is essentially cured lamb belly, just as pork bacon comes from the belly of the pig. As he slices the six pieces requested, you are reminded of pancetta with the round form and swirling of fat and meat. Russ has a client that buys this to make gyros for dinner. Carrying a bag filled with a dozen eggs, two thick-cut pork chops, steak, ground beef, the lamb belly, and a container of pickled onions, that is the last thought you have as you walk out the door.

(…gyro, gyro, gyro).

As you fall asleep that night, lamb bacon invades your dreams and in the distance you can hear the echo of the word gyro (…gyro, gyro, gyro). The next morning as sit with your morning coffee, you begin to think about breakfast. Without hesitation, you go to the freezer, pull out some naan and begin mindlessly fixing a lamb belly bacon pizza / (slash) gyro.

Starts out like bacon, turns into something else.

P_1

Lamb gyro (slash) breakfast pizza (serves 4)

This is an easy breakfast that is even easier if you use store-bought hummus, garlic sauce and romesco. If you can’t find lamb bacon, substitute lamb sausage or ground lamb formed into oblongs, flavored with cumin, salt and pepper. It starts out looking like a pizza, fold it up and you have a breakfast gyro.

INGREDIENTS

4 dime thick slices lamb bacon (lamb sausage or gyro meat if you can’t find the bacon)

4 pieces mini stone fired flatbread or naan

4 TB hummus (make your own or use your favorite purchased brand; I like Wholefoods brand)

2 TB Romesco sauce (make your own or purchase your favorite brand such as this)

Karam’s Lebanese Garlic sauce (It can be shipped within the United States, including Alaska and Hawaii)

4 eggs (salt, pepper for seasoning, butter for cooking)

Parsly for garnish

PREPARATION

Preheat oven to 400 degree F. Put the lamb bacon slices on a baking sheet and cook until slightly browned and cooked through, approximately 10 minutes. Set aside and keep warm.
Put the flatbread in the oven to heat through. Keep an eye on them so they don’t burn. They should be soft, slightly browned and hot. Put them in a warming drawer, or wrap in slightly moistened paper towels to heat again in the microwave before plating. You could, alternatively, put them in the toaster just as you begin cooking the eggs.
Heat a little butter in a skillet and fry the eggs to your liking (season with salt and pepper but go light on the salt as the bacon is salty too).
As the eggs finish, put one flatbread on each of four plates. With a small rubber spatula or butter spoon, spread approximately 1/2 TB Romesco sauce over each, followed by 1 TB hummus over each.
Put one slice of bacon over top of each flatbread and squirt some garlic sauce over top.

6. Top with an egg and garnish with some parsley. Eat it as a pizza or fold it over to make a gyro.

p_runny yolk bitten

That was tasty! Time for a nap.

Time for a spa day…

Operator, I’d like a German Oven Pancake please.

02 Sunday Oct 2016

Posted by Stacey Bender in Breakfast/Brunch, Ginger + Buddy, the kitchen

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

Betty Crocker, breakfast, Brunch, Buddy and Ginger Bender, the Telephone Game

Do you remember the game Operator? It is now known as the telephone game (so I am told); a silly game that we used to play as kids where everyone sits around in a big circle (usually during a sleep-over or birthday party) and one person whispers something into the person’s ear next to them, and that person in turn, whispers the same thing into the next person’s ear, who then repeats it to the next person, and so on. By the end of the circle, the last person is to repeat what they heard out loud. The original statement might have started out saying, “Hey neighbor, your cat’s on our fence.” But the last person to hear it might have heard, “Hey dummy, your elephant is in our backyard.” or some such nonsense.

The point is, as things get passed down, they get reinterpreted, mis-told or misunderstood. The small details or misconceptions can end up having significant impacts on the final outcome. I thought of that game this morning as I went to make brunch. We were down in Hoodsport three weekends ago (as you already know), and my mother-in-law made a wonderful brunch. It was a German Oven Pancake which came from the oven puffed-up and delicate. We slathered it with a little butter then topped it with maple syrup (except silly Tom, who decided to make it savory by coating his in ground pepper). We also had sausages and a plate of fresh fruit. And mimosas, of course. The pancake seemed almost crepe-like. Oh and I do love a good crepe. This was a good (crepe) pancake!

As we were leaving, Lois ran upstairs and copied the recipe for me, which she had hand-written on a recipe card, copied from Tom’s cousin Karen. I didn’t look at it but thanked her, folded it in half and tucked it into a magazine that I was planning to read on the road (home).

The following weekend, I decided I wanted to make the oven pancake for breakfast. I pulled out the magazine (which I still haven’t read, because it had been in the trunk of our car) and unfolded the recipe. The copy was very faint and difficult to read. Tom sat in the daylight (aging eyes struggling), trying to decipher the writing, reading it off to me, stumbling over some of the words and I typed what he said (sic):

“German Oven Pancake – serves 2-4 (or is that a 6?)
1/2 cup flour, sifted, 3 slightly-beaten eggs, 1/2 cup milk, 2 tsp butter or margarine (what?!), melted, 1/4 tsp salt, something, something, confectioner sugar or lemon juice butter.

Add flour to eggs, beating with rotary beater. Stir in milk, melted butter and salt. Thoroughly grease bakers joy baking dish pour into mold dish, bake at 450-degrees for 15-17 minutes. It will get puffy. Loosen at wide spatula.

2. Add butter to flour and eggs then add milk and salt. Can pour over canadian bacon.”

Seriously, that looks better than what he said. It mostly made sense, only because I had sat down to brunch with her as she explained that you could sprinkle confectioners sugar over the top, but she didn’t do that. She also mentioned something about pouring it over Canadian bacon to make it savory. Which, again, was not done. If I had just taken the card and tried to follow the recipe, I would have had many more questions. As it were, my only questions were these:

Does this not use baking powder?
What kind of dish do I bake it in?

I texted over those questions but was inpatient as I was in the thick of my execution and decided to Google, “German Oven Pancake” instead. The first page that came up was from the Betty Crocker website. Seeing that the only cookbook my husband, Tom, came to me with was a later edition of the original Betty Crocker cookbook that he had in college (and I don’t think ever used, but he claims Pete did), I suspected it was quite possible that Betty was the first person in the circle to kick-off our little game of Operator.

So it might have started out with Betty saying, “Operator, I’d like a German Oven Pancake, please.” And I might have finished it by stating, “Operator, I’m a German with a Pancake to Please.” Finally! I’m ashamed to admit, it has taken me three tries.

German Oven Pancake (or so I am told)

Adapted from Lois (Bender) Casto via Karen (Bender) Lieberman, via Betty Crocker (maybe?)

Needless to say, my first attempt at this a few weekends ago was not a success. I think it was because I used whole wheat flour since I did not have any all-purpose flour. I used almond milk rather than cow’s milk, but it might also have been my choice of pan (Tom says sure, blame it on the pan). I had not waited for my mother-in-law to respond to my email before heading into the kitchen. Betty had told us to heat a cast iron skillet before pouring the batter in. After I did this, I got the email from Lois telling me specifically not to use a hot pan. I also decided to make it savory, using proscuitto. Tom thinks it tasted more like a “real” whole wheat pancake. Not what I had in mind, but edible.

I treated it a bit like Margharita (not the best choice)

The proscuitto was tasty.

The following weekend, I thought I might borrow a cup of all-purpose flour from my neighbor Piotr (who was away on job assignment; we were tending to his mail and his garbage). Turned out he too was with whole wheat flour only (good boy). So this time I used a cold pan, but still had the wrong flour. Admmitablely, it looked prettier and (sort of) puffed up but it was a bit dense and not that great (BTW Piotr, your flour is stale).

Puffy, yes. Flour, a tad stale.

So now this time, I did use all-purpose flour, but had to use Greek yogurt (thinned with water) instead of milk (yup, you guessed it, I had no milk). My cake did not bubble up, nor did it get pouffy, like a soufflé (as Lois’ did), but the flavor was spot on! More eggy than cake-like, fluffy, light and a perfect partner for maple syrup, butter and sausage (and not appropriate for pepper).

Ahhhh, success (even if the picture tells a different story).

Ingredients

1/2 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
3 eggs, slightly beaten
1/2 cup milk
2 tsp butter, melted
1/2 tsp kosher salt

Prepare

Heat an oven to 450-degrees.

Butter a baking dish (preferably glass).

Whisk the milk, butter and salt into the eggs

Slowly, whisk in the flour being careful not to over-mix

Pour into the prepared baking dish and cook for 15-17 minutes. It should puff up, but even if it doesn’t, it should still taste quite good. Divide amongst four plates, put a dollop of butter on top and pour some warm maple syrup over. Serve with fruit and breakfast sausage if desired. A mimosa washes it down well (as often he case).

Can I have some too?

Anyone gonna’ eat that last bite? I will, even if I’m about to lose a toof. Did someone say toof fairy leaves treats?

Happy discovery: #1

08 Sunday Mar 2015

Posted by Stacey Bender in Breakfast/Brunch, cooking basics

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Brunch, pancakes, tapioca pancakes

Yesterday morning for brunch (a somewhat late brunch), we resorted to pancakes and bacon. Not to say that we don’t like pancakes and bacon because we really do. I say “resorted to” because once again, even after buying the obnoxiously large 24 pack of (organic) eggs, I found myself this Saturday morning, left with only one egg. I didn’t even get around to thinking about brunch until much later than usual because Tom and I woke up, showered and each went to our computers to work with a mug of coffee in hand.

Next thing we knew, it was 2:00 pm and I was starving (not Tom, I think he might be part camel??). Lunch-like foods were not sounding that good to either of us; it was Saturday and we felt deprived of brunch!

So, knowing what I could do with one egg, I began to make pancake mix; only to discover that I was without dairy. I rarely have milk, unless it is buttermilk, but I had no plain yogurt or cottage cheese either. I eyed a suspiciously empty jar of Wildwood aioli (our substitute for mayonnaise) and decided that adding water to the jar was a bad idea, for many reasons. I quickly moved on, scanning the fridge one last time before giving up, when I spotted a possibility.

My eye had stopped at the tapioca pudding from Trader Joe’s (TJs). I had choices here; I could just drive down to TJs and buy milk, but then I would also buy eggs… which would make me question what I had already decided to prepare. Pancakes, because I only had one egg. It was only minutes away though. Yet I knew that I would not stop at buying milk; I would obviously buy eggs too (well, not obviously) and then it would snowball from there, arriving home an hour later with just as much time needed to put everything away. Then I would begin making dinner instead. Okay, okay, tapioca!

I looked at the label and the first ingredient was milk; this was promising. I decided that it had enough sugar to not need more and it was also flavored with vanilla; this might actually be good. Turns out, it was! Really good! Happy discovery #1 – enjoy with a glass of prosecco!

Tapioca Pancakes

main image PS

INGREDIENTS

1 (not quite full, packed or fussed over) cup of whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda

1 TB butter, melted (I like to do this in a Pyrex measuring cup put in the microwave, because then I can just whisk in the egg and stir in the dairy without fussing too much).

1 egg – whisked into the butter
A glob (technical term, no?) of TJs tapioca pudding – I had about 1/4 of the package left so I estimate it was about 1/2 cup – whisked into the butter and egg.

Water – whatever is needed to bring the consistency to a good pancake batter (I probably added 1/4 cup)

SIDES and GARNISH

Strawberries, cleaned, hulled and quartered to go alongside
Maple syrup and butter for serving

Bacon – 2-3 slices for each, preferably thicker cut (we like apple-smoked from Whole Foods the best, but there are many good ones to choose from).

PREP

MIX all of the dry ingredients together in a medium mixing bowl.

WHISK TOGETHER the melted butter, egg and tapioca, adding just enough water to make it fluid.

PREHEAT THE OVEN to 400-degrees.

PLACE THE BACON, on a baking pan lined with foil.

COOK

HEAT A CAST IRON SKILLET over medium heat. Lightly DRIZZLE with olive oil and spread evenly over the surface.

MEANWHILE, POP THE BACON into the oven for about 10 minutes. Be sure to turn on the fan, and don’t forget that it is in there and pull it out when done.

DROP DOLLOPS OF BATTER onto the skillet and cook until it starts to bubble. Flip and cook until cake-like and done.

SERVE

Pile the pancakes into a stack of three or so per plate. Butter and drizzle with maple syrup. Serve sliced strawberries and the bacon alongside.

Buddy Hop

22 Sunday Feb 2015

Posted by Stacey Bender in Eating Out, Ginger + Buddy, Health, the kitchen

≈ 13 Comments

Tags

acupuncture for dogs, Brunch, duck confit hash, roasted mushroom & cauliflower sauce

Buddy can’t jump up or get down our bedroom step in the dim light anymore (but Tom says he can still get down and get funky). There is only one step but he will stand looking at that step, whining, until he is rescued from it to the wool carpet or to the comfort of the bed, fluffy with down and warmly coated with a thick wool throw. The bed is only a foot and a half high but he has trouble jumping up to that too… even more-so if the covers are untucked, because he then has no access to the lower perimeter ledge of the upholstered frame.

Somewhere between 3 weeks to a month ago, he stepped up his game (yes, pun intended), and flew down the stair (singular), without a blink in the dimly lit room, but because I had food (in bed). The movement was quick, so determined, yet graceful and swift; he landed in the proximity of my lap (up on the mattress top, plus fluff, bed) all before I could blink. He landed even before Ginger could get to the step. I think he likes cheese!

I am always amazed at how much time I can spend just watching my dogs. They aren’t always doing anything especially exciting and there is rarely a time that they do something new, or something I have never seen them do at least a dozen times before.

Yet there I sit, watching, never growing tired of what I see. The slight movement of one’s head will have me smirk or smile as the nose on that head nestles under the nose of a stuffed bear, or as a tiny paw tucks underneath their own wet, cold nose. Watching them sleep is an activity I am particularly fond of; I like watching their inactivity. Particularly the newer activity of sleeping next to each other, sometimes even touching back to back; a sight we never thought possible a few years ago.

There is a sound that comes out of Buddy as he sleeps that I find myself listening to as intently as if there were a jazz band jamming on a new tune. It is somewhere between a snore and a groan but it is rhythmic and undulating, moving his breath in and out. Ginger doesn’t snore, she rests softly, until she lets out a large sigh. The sigh is so long, peaceful and cleansing that it reminds me to let my breath out and breathe, yes, yes, b r e a t h e.

Ginger is still active for a gal of fourteen. She loves to play like a puppy and she spends many moments flopping to and fro on her back. Ginger is a ham (which, of course, goes well with cheese). She likes to perform and she wants all eyes on her. Buddy is more of an onlooker. He sees all and makes sure he is always in the know. I can’t walk two steps in the house without him following frantically behind (tap, tap, tap, tap, hop).

If there is food, or even if Buddy thinks there should be food, he makes it a habit to levitate while letting out an enormous squeal. The sound should have me cringing as I would from the sound of a slow, d e e p scratch over a chalkboard. However, watching a small, furry, live cartoon character, lift off the floor, all fours at once, is amusement enough to let the sound become overlooked and to send me to the kitchen to get food.

Buddy has a hop to his step. Sometimes, when he gets excited, his hop becomes higher and more pronounced, like a bunny. He is animated in his movements and I can see how he might be considered the real inspiration of “jumping beans”. He would also make a good fencer because he is agile, plus quick to duck back and forth to get out of my way as I swiftly prepare a meal in the kitchen or two-step at the bathroom sink getting ready each morning.

Some days, I think buddy is a puppy, but others I realize he is an old(er) man. Sadly, recently we had one of those “old man” days. Last Saturday morning we awoke to a hunched back, little/old furry guy. No telling why but the skip and the hop were not present; in their place were moans, agitated snoozing and hesitancy to move. He looked disoriented, uncomfortable and (gasp) old.

At least he had comfort in his friend.

The severity of our concern escalated for 24 hours without apparent relief or restitution of symptom. No more leaping at cheese (on the bed or elsewhere), hopping, skipping or otherwise enjoying the usual happy pursuit claiming food. This could not end well, I thought. I was once told (and believe for myself as well as for my pups), that without the rudimentary, yet essential yearning of food, it is time to be concerned. In other words, as long as one has an appetite, it can’t be too bad. Luckily, his appetite did remain, it was simply the lengths to which he would go to obtain the food that had changed.

Come Monday, we were able to secure an acupuncture appointment with Dr. Rice. We were hopeful that relief was in store but not convinced that it was going to provide complete recovery. Thankfully, we were proven wrong (about complete recovery). Within mere seconds of the first needle going in, a large, dumb, tongue hanging grin appeared on buddy’s previously tortured looking face. I don’t think Tom or I could have smiled any larger than we did at the sight of that toothless grin.

Pin cushion Buddy

We are avid believers in the practice of acupuncture, both for dogs and of humans, after experiencing it first-hand for ourselves; if ever skeptical about the effectiveness of it though, this was proof enough for us. At the exact moment that the smile appeared on Buddy’s face, relief washed over us and we realized the power was deep and even more powerful than we first had believed. We brought in an old man and went home with a pup.

Pitter pat, pitter pat….pat..pat…pat….pat! To and fro, up, down, hop…skip…jump!

Duck confit hash with poached egg, roasted mushroom & cauliflower sauce
Serves 2, easily doubles

Buddy and Ginger used to eat duck and potato kibble from Prescription Diet; this was due to Ginger’s early allergies that were suspected to be due to food. Apparently, this is a very common thing for canines to suffer from and it was(is) believed that by feeding them sources of food not readily available to their ancestors, there bodies would be less susceptible to allergy. Hence, duck to replace chicken and potato to replace traditional grain. It has been awhile since they have eaten that food (since Buddy’s first scare) but their newer diet does still consist of duck (raw, from Darwin’s). We try to lay low on potatoes but they love them and are sometimes allowed to still have them snuck into their meals (boiled, not fried).

Last weekend, while brunching at Sitka & Spruce on Valentine’s Day (a day I have long ago sworn off from eating out on, but this brunch was spontaneous), we stopped into Rain Shadow Meats. For those of you who have not been to Melrose Market on Capital Hill in Seattle, you must go. If you live here, you probably have been, if you haven’t, it is worth a trip. The brunch at Sitka & Spruce still has me drooling and attempting to recreate the roasted carrots with rhutabega puree.

Our duck confit from Rain Shadow Meats, pictured on the counter to the right

With several brown packages tucked neatly under my arm, we looked forward to our dinner. Plans always sound better with a cocktail and a good meal. We ended up eating pizza, but did make a series of delicious meals on the days to follow as we pursued using up all of the meats that we bought that day. The remains of their house-made duck confit was still in our fridge the following Saturday morning (yesterday), so I decided to make a duck hash for brunch.

The hash is topped with a poached egg drizzled with roasted mushroom and cauliflower sauce. The sauce is actually a soup that I made mid-week for Ginger and Buddy but it works nicely over the egg, and they enjoyed it this way for brunch too (sans hash for them).

This starts with my breakfast potatoes, then gets layered with caramelized onions, roasted pepper and the duck. Cooking low-and-slow helps everything to remain soft while developing a nice crust. You can purchase duck confit from a good grocery store or your butcher if you aren’t in a position to confit it yourself. This would also be equally good with a roasted duck leg which is really easy to do and less expensive to buy.

INGREDIENTS

3 potatoes, cut into 1/2″ dice, parboiled in salted water
1 TB butter or duck fat
1/2 of a roasted red pepper, cut into strips or 1/2″ diced
A handful of caramelized onions (approximately 1/4 cup)
Meat from a 1/4 leg duck confit (approximately 3-4 oz.)
1 oz chèvre
2-4 poached eggs (1-2 per person)
3-4 spoonfuls roasted mushroom & cauliflower sauce per person (recipe to follow)

PREPARE

To a very hot pan over high heat, add the butter or duck fat. When it has melted, add the potatoes and turn the heat to low.

Let the potatoes cook, undisturbed for about ten minutes then stir them around to brown the other side.

After a few more minutes, when the potatoes begin to soften and color, add the bell pepper, onion and duck. Stir to combine then let cook, undisturbed for another 10 minutes or so.

Stir again, then cover with foil and continue to cook over low heat while you poach the eggs. Turn on the broiler before poaching the eggs.

As you remove the eggs from the poaching water, crumble the hash with the chèvre and place the pan under the broiler for just a minute or two.

TO SERVE

Divide the hash between plates, top with an egg (or two) and drizzle with sauce.

Roasted mushroom & cauliflower sauce (or soup)

This makes a delicious soup both for us and our dogs. You can adjust the thickness by adding or omitting chicken stock. Vegetable stock works too if you want to keep it vegetarian or use water if you don’t have any stock. When I serve myself this as a soup, I drizzle the top with truffle or Argan oil. You could also slice raw mushrooms very thinly, season them with sea salt and pepper, then marinate them in lemon juice, truffle and olive oils. Add these as a garnish on top of the soup.

The quantities below are just a suggestion. Using more or less vegetable will require more or less liquid. There are so few ingredients that the roasting and coloring of the mushrooms and cauliflower are what will yield the intensity of the flavor. I like using a ratio of more mushrooms than cauliflower to bring out the nutty earthiness but it is the cauliflower that smooths the consistency nicely enough to use it as a sauce. I use my Blendtec to puree which turns it velvety smooth.

INGREDIENTS

10-12 oz Crimini mushrooms, stems discarded
1/4 head cauliflower, large stocks removed and discarded, florets separated
Olive oil
2 cups chicken stock (from this recipe if serving to pups)
Approximately 3 TB lemon juice
Sea salt and pepper to taste (limit this if serving to pups)

PREPARE

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Put the mushrooms and cauliflower on a sheet pan and drizzle with a little olive oil. Roast them in the oven until the mushrooms are slightly crisp but not burnt and the cauliflower is browned, approximately 15 minutes.

Remove the pan from the oven and let cool slightly. Transfer to a food processor or blender (again, if you have a Blendtec or similar, use that). Add the stock or water and lemon juice.

Puree until completely smooth. Add more liquid if needed or desired. The consistancy should tend toward the thickish-side. Season to taste and serve warm as a soup or a sauce.

Brunch is good!

Roasted carrots at Sitka & Spruce

Brussel sprout, flora & parsnip fritatta at Sitka and Spruce

Brussel sprout, flora & parsnip fritatta at Sitka & Spruce

Duck confit hash at Chez Stacey

Happy pups, begging for more at Chez Stacey

Green soup (and ham?)

25 Saturday Oct 2014

Posted by Stacey Bender in Health, the kitchen

≈ 31 Comments

Tags

Brunch, chard soup, cooking, Dr Seuss, fiesta Friday, green eggs and ham, green soup, ham and eggs, healthy recipe

I have garden envy. When my brother and sister-in-law moved into their newly-built house on Bainbridge Island sixteen years ago, their lawn consisted of nothing but mud, rocks, old growth trees and dreams. Over the course of time, we have seen the transformation go from a yard that housed not even a place for Buffy to poop and pee, to many places for children to play and grow-up, adults to luncheon, retreat, tinker and entertain, and the gardener to grow vegetables rivaling those found at the Farmer’s Market. There is a cleverly designed tree house, an elaborate garden and potting shed, a trellised patio out back with trickling water, beautiful plantings and a resident frog. There are large trees, two in particular, that in the Summer are the anchoring points for a big screen, where movies are played for a gathering of neighbors, family and friends. There is a water feature that was built between a neighboring house that resembles a woodsy brook that you’d never know hadn’t been there a hundred years.

But, oh what a garden has transpired. The first time I encountered it, the vegetables were limited. There was cabbage, very large and obnoxious looking; yet I suspect they were good. There was kale. This, before kale was the “it” veg to eat. I knew not why someone would want to eat it, let alone grow it in their yard? There it was though, not particularly interesting to me, then. Ornamental perhaps?

On one particular visit to their house for dinner, I was taken aback by the progress. The little garden that once was made up of a strip of property in the proximity to the length of their (long) kitchen, had suddenly become, without my knowing, a white picket fenced area, encompassing actual square footage in their yard. Christine took me on a mini tour (because it was a mini footprint, but impressive), yes it was.

Quite some time has passed now and it is on the rarer occasion that we make it “on island”. In the following years though, while we were still somewhat regular spectators and participants, their adjoining neighbor became family, the toddlers became kids and the kids became adolescents…the garden shed was built and the tree house was erected. There was a dog now, other than our own, that graced the property and he (Snowball) has an orchestrated place to poop and pee.

If trees could talk, they might tell us of the nights that the neighboring families’ children came back and forth with my nieces and nephew, in happiness, in tears, and sometimes in the middle of the night. The trees might talk of teenage gossip, pubescent fears or the story of a comforting marriage of two homes. The trees might suggest that this was a place, in modern times, with old-fashioned values and good people. They would also be grateful, the trees, for the love that sprouted around them and the edibles that nourished the ones within. For that, Tom and I are happy too.

_PS_1 spoon not edited

We live off-island but fond memories (and occasional visits) still languish in our minds. Most recently, my Mom, on her recent visit (to them, via our house) brought us home a gift from Christine; the most beautiful bouquet of hydrangeas, each stem capped in a plastic vial of water (a bouquet which made the most glorious appearance in our living room to welcome in the last of the decreasing summer sun) and a large bag filled with kale. The most beautiful and tasty kale. And chard. Gorgeous chard. And tomatoes, so sweet and perfect, they were oooohed and awed upon for the appropriate amount of time before the first one burst and the fruit flies laid claim. At this point, and not a second too soon, I had the will power and inclination to quit hoarding them for that most appropriate meal (which should always be now), and just dig in eating them raw, with reckless abandon. So reckless, I will not share the details. The remainder (because there were many) found their way into a most delightful fresh soup, recipe found here.

From the greens, among other things, I made soup! Green soup…and ham.

PS_egg in soup1

(Almost) All Green Soup
makes approximately 12 cups

As you will find, if you continue to read what I write (in the future, and I hope you do), I am reluctant to give up a good thing…I like to dream. I like to think about what might be best rather than what would be easiest (at the time). So with the abundance of kale and chard (still) stored in my crisper, waiting for that perfect purpose, I decided to make soup. Mostly with the chard, whose beautiful leaves had begun to wilt. I had used some of them previously, in a sauté with our steak and one with our fish. I had planned to wrap them over true cod, stuffed with bacon and leeks. I had thought of mixing them in with ravioli and then thought of layering with eggplant, red peppers and veal. I had imagined them as forming packets of ground lamb, co-existing with coriander, sweet onions and chopped kale. I did though, use some to wrap my tuna salad, some to wrap my hummus, and it made its way into Tom’s turkey with cheese sandwich (surprise!).

This soup was a finale to the wonderful gift, harvested from that, now abundant, garden on Bainbridge. The soup contains almost no fat and is vegetarian, if you leave out the ham bone I decided to throw in (used to flavor another soup effort, simultaneously occurring). It makes more than one family could possibly eat (unless you live at that house in Bainbridge I spoke of with the two families and friends sharing the meal…but perhaps more than enough even then). I will be freezing mine, in single serving portions, to eat for lunch at my whim.

The flavor is slightly spicy yet humble and earthy. The coriander is apparent and the unmistakable texture of lentils adds enough weight to the soup that it tends toward the comfort spectrum rather than the light and healthy.

The health benefits are worth mention though. There are so many green things in here, it should qualify for LEED (sorry, occupational reference). It also contains onions, many, many onions; no feeding this to your dog(s), sorry G & B.

Chard: Has a low impact on blood glucose, making it an excellent choice for diabetics (Linda, please take note of that and stuff it into Dad’s food, shhhh). (a) Chard stalks: are high in glucosinolates, causing them to be a good thing for inflammatory purposes, especially associated with surgery (pay attention Dad; I will be sure Linda is aware (heh, heh)). (b) Chard greens: pack cartenoid which is good for your eyes and vitamin K, which is an excellent way of boosting your cardiovascular health (the stalks contain this too). They also contain a high level of oxalates, which if you have kidney problems, should be consumed in moderation. Consult your doctor for concerns.
Kale: Lowers your cholesterol! Steam your kale for the best cholesterol benefit (darn, I like mine raw and massaged; still cholesterol lowering but not as much as steamed). Steaming kale helps the fiber components to bind with bile acids which in turn help them to extract more easily (lowering your cholesterol). Kale is also beneficial in regulating detoxification at a genetic level. It can help with inflammation and oxidative stress. Who knew? (Apparently everyone but me!)
Carrot greens: Are not the tastiest eaten raw (unless you are a bunny or love bitter, herbacious and stringent, which I do) but they do pack this soup with additional vitamins A, B6, C and K, plus folate, manganese, niacin, potassium and thiamin.
Celery: Is packed with antioxidants which protect against oxygen damage to our cells, blood vessels and organs. The pectin-based polysaccharides in celery help to protect the stomach lining from ulcers. However, this nutritional value is better when the celery is steamed or eaten raw rather than boiled.
Cilantro: Is a member of the carrot family. It helps to relieve intestinal gas pain, helps treat headaches, coughs and mental stress. Cilantro also helps combat lead and other heavy metal toxicity (it is even being studied as a natural purification agent for water).
Parsley: Is great as a digestive aid, natural breath freshener and more…

…I could go on, but I won’t. You get the idea.

So, if that’s not reason enough to eat this superstar, healthy soup, eat it because it is just damn tasty (personal opinion, of course)! You can wear it plain or dress it up with a spoonful of scrambled eggs, a dollop of plain yogurt or, better yet, a topping of tender pulled ham. If you feel indifferent or curious, try mixing all three (green, eggs and ham!).

INGREDIENTS

1-2 TB olive oil
1 cup chopped onions
1 TB chopped garlic
1 cup chopped carrot (+ the greens if still attached, stems removed)
1 cup chopped celery
1 TB chopped jalapeño
2 cups sliced leeks
1 cup green lentils
2 tsp ground coriander
4 tomatillos
2 kale leaves, stemmed
12 oz chard leaves plus their stems, chopped
Sprinkle of sea salt over greens
2 TB lime juice
1 large bunch (2 cups) coarsely-chopped green onion
1 bunch cilantro, stems and all
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, stems removed
1/2 cup fresh parsley, stems and all
Ham bone/shank

In a large stockpot, heat the olive oil and sauté the onions, garlic, carrot, celery, jalapeño, chard stems and leeks until beginning to soften. Turn down the heat to simmer and let them sweat until the leeks begin to melt, approximately 15 minutes.

Add the lentils and coriander. Stir to combine. Add the tomatillos then lay the chard leaves and kale on top. Sprinkle a little sea salt and squeeze the lime juice over the greens, cover and let cook over low heat to let them wilt and soften, about 10 minutes.

Add the green onions, carrot greens (if using), cilantro, basil and parsley. Add the stock, water and almond milk. The liquid should mostly cover the greens but not overwhelm them. Add a little more liquid if you feel there is not enough. At this point, if you are using the ham bone/shank, tuck it into the liquid. Again, this is optional and while I think it does improve the flavor, it would be just fine without it if you prefer to stick to vegetarian. Bring this to a simmer then cover with the lid askew. Let cook over low heat for an hour or so to really draw out the flavors.

Let sit in the pot to cool enough to handle. Transfer the soup, in batches, to a blender or food processor (I used my Blendtec). Purée until very smooth. You should have a very large bowl filled with soup when you are done. Squeeze in the juice of one lime and stir. Serve piping hot.

If you would like to add a little texture, mix in some additional cooked lentils. For a heartier soup, stir in some of the meat from the shank. Another suitable garnish would be crispy bacon pieces; so many choices, so much soup…

You can even eat it for breakfast (or this would make an equally satisfying lunch, dinner perhaps?). Simply heat the soup and ladle it into an oven-proof dish. Top the soup with a sunny-side up egg, a thin slice of gruyère and tuck in some thinly shaved ham. Broil until the cheese melts then dig in.

And a happy birthday to my blog friend, Angie. In honor of your birthday, I made green, eggs & ham! One Sue(ss) two Sue(ss), happy birthday to you (to the tune of the birthday song, of course!).

Hard to come by

08 Saturday Feb 2014

Posted by Stacey Bender in the kitchen

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Brunch, pastrami, toast

You know how you are walking down the street one day planning to do one thing but find your feet taking you somewhere else? No? Well let me put it another way, have you ever wanted to go somewhere but not really known where that somewhere is? Like maybe you want to be around people, without actually being around people so you end up at a library or sitting solo at a bar?

This recently happened to me (three weeks ago) and it was delightful (not the library or the bar but you get the idea). Delightful might be a little misleading because I wasn’t having tea and crumpets or anything but delightful is what it was. I found myself with extra time (I know, I know – extra t i m e) which is something I never have extra of, but there I was, leaving work on a Friday afternoon (yes, l e a v i n g work), only two hours past my scheduled departure of 1:00 pm for the first time in what seemed like a year (I work longer days to have a supposed short day on Friday).

I began walking to the bus stop but didn’t really want to get on the bus, or more to the point, didn’t really want to go home, quite yet, despite wanting to surprise the pups. Because also at home there were tasks to do such as the dishwasher to empty, then fill. The vacuum to run, clothing to…o r g a n i z e and dinner to make. Oh, dinner. I had nothing to make, yet.

It was crisp out, but sunny. I arrived at the bus stop which was crowded; the bus was due to arrive any minute and then I would get on and go home. Without slowing down, I kept walking instead. Walking and walking right past the crowd, North up the sidewalk toward The Market. Before I knew it, I found myself at sandylew, one of my favorite little boutiques that I hadn’t made time to visit since Summer, 1, 2, 3…6 months ago. Inside were the same friendly faces and a candyland of artistic and unusual garments (lucky me the entire store was o n s a l e)!

One hour later, I walked out of the store with my polka dot bag of pink tissue-wrapped treasures and found myself entering Delaurenti to buy vinegar (yes, vinegar). I didn’t make it past the meat counter for another 1/2 hour. Without missing a beat, I began ordering Porchetta and hot Italian sausage, bresaola and rosemary ham. Then came the cheeses, fresh mozzerella (made in house), Comte from France, and a pastoral cow milk cheese featured that day on the chalkboard. The whole time, there was no pressure for me to hurry. Each selection was expertly cut and wrapped with a hand-written label. Each selection led to a question and often to a sample, then in turn, a selection of what I had sampled. Each question was answered with delight (yes, delight); and so it went on this way for awhile. Oh, happy day!

So rare it is anymore, to find a place such as this, that transports you back to another era, another country so completely. When Louie Delaurenti sold this place in 2001, I was sure it would inevitably turn into something it was not. Sure, I have stood in line several people deep and waited and waited during the holidays, swearing never again.

Yet, here it sits, delivering and delighting both the loyal, long-time clientele as well as the frequenting locals and the Seattle visitors with more than a product; an epicurean experience, without having lost the charm that brought us there in the first place. Just as I thought I had more than sufficiently filled up my basket, I spied a hunk of pastrami labeled “Carnegie” from New York (ooh, rival only to Katz’s), where we spent hours years ago (with Tom threatening to replay the Meg Ryan scene with Billy Crystal; one rare time he refrained from movie re-enacting).

But alas, my basket had to make room for one more bundle.

Pastrami Toast with Egg

Ever since reading about standing in line outside a deli in New York, eating a hot pastrami sandwich on Butter, Basil and Breadcrumbs , I have been craving a Reuben. Since it was technically brunch time here, I decided to do this instead. It hits both the high points of a Reuben and my requirements for a meal after 10 am and before 3 pm on a weekend. Bloody Mary recommended.

Quantities are approximate and subject to discretion and personal taste (as usual).

INGREDIENTS for two servings

1 cup thinly sliced red cabbage
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp natural sugar
6 grinds fresh pepper
1 tsp prepared horseradish
2 tsp L’Estromell Grenache vinegar

2 slices dense bread (I used Ciro’s ciabatta, but a good dense rye would be swell)
Dijon mustard for spreading
2 – 3 oz thinly sliced pastrami (the good stuff)
1 oz thinly sliced Comte (France) or gruyere (enough to cover with two thin layers)
2 organic eggs

1 TB ketchup
1 TB mayonnaise (I use Wildwood aioli)
2 slices dill pickle, chopped

PREP

Mix the sliced red cabbage with salt, sugar, pepper, horseradish and vinegar.

Spread a slice of bread with Dijon mustard and put the prepared bread on a baking tin.

Top with a layer of cabbage,

followed by pastrami,

then Comte cheese slices, one layer slightly overlapping.

Fry the eggs in a skillet until just set on the bottom (tilt the pan to let the white thin out and set). Carefully transfer the egg, using a spatula, to the top of each piece of prepared bread slice.

Mix the ketchup, mayonnaise and pickle in a small bowl; set aside.

COOK & SERVE

Cook in a 400 degree oven for approx. 7-8 min (if the white is not cooking, add a few drops of water over the egg being careful not to let it run over the bread. Top with another slice of cheese and turn the oven to broil. Keep your eye on it and remove when the cheese is melted.

Serve with knife and fork, sauce mixture on the side.

My Kind of Brunch

18 Saturday Jan 2014

Posted by Stacey Bender in the kitchen

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

Brunch, Pork Chop, Sunny-up Egg, Zucchini

Pan-fried Pork Chop with Black Bean Mash, Macerated Zucchini and an Egg Sunny-side-up, (Bloody Mary strongly recommended)

To demonstrate my agility, flexibility and MacGyver-like traits, I am using my (now somewhat thickish) black bean soup for garnishing brunch before putting the rest in the freezer (perhaps never to be seen again, for awhile anyways) and that, I promise, will be the last you will hear, from me, about black beans and soup (for at least a fortnight).

Brunch, to me, is basically anything served between 10 am and 3 pm that contains an egg (on it, in it, or next to it) but only on weekends and holidays, and especially if accompanied by a mimosa or Bloody Mary. This is a slightly odd perspective I realize, partly because brunch should, in theory (at least in the U.S.) be lighter than dinner. Yet with this egg theory, it is (sometimes) actually adding additional content to an already perfectly well-rounded and substantial meal. Be that as it may, I equate eggs with morning meals, perhaps due to my somewhat traditional, American upbringing, and therefore feel an egg is required at brunch (a combination of breakfast and lunch). To go one further, lunch (or dinner for that matter) actually turns into brunch with the addition of an egg. Regardless of this somewhat skewed reasoning, an egg, a really good, farm-fresh egg, is a lovely partner to many suiters and to this, I will happily adapt.

So today (Saturday), it is later than 10am and earlier than 3pm, I am serving what could basically constitute dinner, adding an egg and washing it down with a Bloody Mary, hence, here we have brunch.

Pan-fried Pork Chop with Black Bean Mash, Macerated Zucchini and a Sunny-side-up Egg

INGREDIENTS (for the Zucchini)

Per person – (5) five, 1/8″ slices Zucchini squash cut on the diagonal (mix of green and yellow)
Per person – (2) two pieces of cut tomato
1 TB champagne vinegar per 10-15 slices
2 pinches sea salt per 10-15 slices
Fresh ground pepper to taste
Drizzle of olive oil to just barely coat the squash (1 tsp or so)

PREPARE (the zucchini)

PUT the zucchini and tomato pieces into a bowl and ADD the rest of the ingredients. MIX TOGETHER and set aside.

INGREDIENTS (for the black bean mash)

Per person – 1/4 cup thickened black bean soup*

*I had leftover black bean soup which prompted my idea for this brunch but if you don’t have black bean soup made, you could simply open a can of black beans (or better yet, cook your own), drain and rinse the canned beans and add them to a sauté of chopped onions. To this sauté, add a little chili spice, salt, pepper, cumin and oregano. Douse it all with a little orange juice and cook for a further 10 minutes until the juice has soaked in. Mash the beans with the back of a stirring spoon. Adding a little olive oil or yogurt will help make them be more pliable and will enhance the taste.

INGREDIENTS (for the pork)

Per person – one center-cut, thin, pork rib chop (bone in)
Sea salt and fresh ground pepper for seasoning
A few dollops of plain yogurt
Panko (enough to coat chop(s))

Per person – 1 egg cooked sunny-side-up

COOK (the pork)

SEASON the pork with salt and pepper. POUND it between wax paper to help tenderize. RUB OVER a little plain yogurt; enough to coat and noticeably see white on the pork. PRESS the pork into a plate of Panko to adhere fully on each side.

HEAT a pan and add olive oil to cover the bottom of the pan. When the oil moves freely when tilting the pan, ADD the pork and cook over medium high heat until the first side is evenly browned, 2-4 minutes. TURN and brown the other side but do not over cook. Depending on the heat of your stove and the thickness of the pork, the time needed will vary. Thin pork cooks fairly quickly though so be sure to stay with it and look to press down any raw edges but remove before it becomes tough.

Just as the pork is cooking, you can begin cooking the egg(s). If you have room, you could cook the egg(s) in the same pan. Set the pork aside to a warm spot as the egg finishes cooking. The trick to a sunny egg is to cook the egg white through without turning the egg over. I like my egg a little crispy on the bottom so I do mine over butter but this is an interesting method that I found and will next time give a try.

PLATE

Let them eat (crab) cake!

27 Friday Dec 2013

Posted by Stacey Bender in From the journals, holidays, the kitchen

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Appetizers, Brunch, Crab cakes, Holidays, Roasted red pepper mustard sauce

Everyone likes a good (crab) cake (well anyone who likes crab that is…and for those that don’t, they will probably like cake, although they might have to look elsewhere for that. You can’t please them all). Finding a good crab cake is not as easy as it might seem. Often they are riddled with much more breadcrumb than crab, squishy, mushy and bland. I have figured them out though, quite some time ago, and crab cakes continue to be one of my favorite things to make for a (small) crowd. I have deviated from my most basic method on more than one occasion by trying to introduce interesting flavors and flares of creativity but, let’s face it, some things are just not to be messed with, period. So, the basics shall remain and the creativity might come in the sauce or the presentation; which, in itself could be subject for a book. For now though, I’m keeping it simple. Plus red(ish) and green. For the holidays!

BASIC CRAB CAKES

So, if you are wondering if it is worth the added effort of shelling your own crab – it is! If you are one that can delegate, this is a good task to delegate to those asking for a task. I, always being short on time, and particularly bad at delegating, often opt to buy the crab meat rather than the whole crab, but, the outcome does then suffer. Not to say this is a bad way to go (but before it goes into the seafood case, it does come out of a can); just saying that if you have the time and want the best, buy the crab, freshly cooked, cleaned and still in it’s shell. I know that’s how I’m gonna roll going forward! I do have Gemini close by – home of the BFC’s (Big Fat Crab)!

INGREDIENTS

Freshly shucked meat from 1 dungeness crab (approximately 1lb meat)
1 TB chopped green onion (mostly white part)
2 TB chopped roasted red pepper
1 TB chopped fresh herbs (I sometimes use cilantro and thyme, today it was micro-celery greens which I highly recommend, in which case omit the celery)
1 TB finely chopped celery
The juice from 1 large lemon wedge (Meyer if possible)
A grind or two fresh pepper
2-3 shakes from container of Old Bay Seasoning
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 TB crème fraîche or Wildwood aioli
A few shakes Tabasco sauce

Part of one beaten egg

1/4-1/2 cup (or less) Panko, plus more to coat cakes with

Roasted red pepper mustard sauce
Greens for garnish

PREP

Other than the quality of the crab, the next most important thing to do, for a successful cake, is to
s q u e e z e out all of the moisture before you begin. I use paper towels for this; cheese cloth is even better but I seldom actually have cheese cloth around.

Once the crab is depleted of excess water, place it into a bowl, just big enough to hold it until you are ready to mix everything together.

In a medium sized bowl, mix the green onion, red pepper, herb, celery, lemon juice, pepper, mustard, aioli or crème fraîche, Old Bay and Tabasco.

Add the crab, stirring carefully with a rubber spatula, so as to keep the chunks intact.

Taste and adjust the seasoning before adding the egg. Add 1/2 – 3/4 of the whisked egg and 1/4 cup of the panko, adding more in small quantities as needed. You will want to have enough crumb to hold the mixture together without excess moisture. I like to add as little panko as possible (which will result in a purer flavor). Once satisfied with the mix, form into rolls with the palm of your hand. You can make them as big as you like but the larger they are, the fewer the quantity. I like mine on the smaller side so more of it is coated with the crispy brown crumb when sautéed.

As you form the rolls, cup them tightly in your palms and squeeze out the excess moisture again (which will partly be egg). Be sure they are tightly packed together as you pat the shape into an organic round ball.

When all of the mix is formed, set out a plate of panko and press each ball into the panko, lightly and with care so as not to flatten too much; do this with both sides.

Cover in plastic and let chill in the refrigerator for an hour before cooking.

COOK

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat a pan (I use my copper core stainless steel All Clad) and add enough peanut oil (or canola, or olive – in that order) to just cover the bottom with enough to slide slightly around. The pan should be big enough to let each cake sit without being crowded or you should do this step in separate batches. When the oil is quite hot but not smoking, add the cakes and let brown; approximately 2-3 minutes. Turn them over to brown on the opposite side. You want them to be golden, not black and not pale. Adding a slight bit more oil if required but keep a close eye. When browned on two sides, transfer the cakes to a pan (I use a pizza pan) and finish cooking in the oven until warmed through. If you like, and it is more convenient, you may brown them up to an hour in advance, set onto the pan on the counter until the guests have arrived and each has received their cocktails. Pop them into the oven for somewhere between 8-10 minutes. Serve at once while still hot, on a platter or on individual plates (with garnish and, of course, sauce). Since it was handy (and red), I decided to use my roasted red pepper mustard sauce this time.

…and for breakfast – Crab Cakes with Poached Egg and Hollandaise

Uneaten cakes will do well for your breakfast. I often hold back a few to cook fresh the next morning but heated or just cooked, either way, they taste great topped with a poached egg and a vast variety of sauces. Hollandaise is quick and easier than you might think, so I usually do that.

To my emptied, but un-wiped “magic bullet” jar that I made the pepper sauce in (or food processor fresh and unused), I add 2 TB clarified butter hot off the stove to one egg yoke. Whiz this together and then put it back to the (little) saucepan used to make the clarified butter (for added zip and a little heat, add a pinch of chipotle chile powder). Heat the pan over low and add an ice cube to keep the sauce from becoming too thick while the eggs poach. Top a crab cake with a poached egg and spoon over the sauce. A few breakfast potatoes are also quite nice to go alongside but a salad garnish is simple, healthy and crisp.

Buddy, uh, what happened to the bacon (Did I mention the bacon; that was for Tom)?

Forgive me my manners

29 Sunday Sep 2013

Posted by Stacey Bender in cooking basics, From the journals, the kitchen

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Brunch, Potatoes

What kind of food blogger would I be without feeding you? It is Sunday morning and time for brunch so let’s begin with that… You’ll be seeing brunch in many upcoming posts; it is by far one of my most rewarding meals to cook. Sometimes it ends up being my large snack before preparing dinner!

When my husband and I were first dating, he requested hash browns for breakfast. I had never made hash browns and was unsure how to even deal with the potatoes. I tried several methods of cutting the potatoes, shredding and chopping; I precooked the potatoes and sautéed them raw. I never really achieved his interpretation of hash browns (although the potato cakes rosti come very close) but this is the version of potato that we use most often at breakfast and I do believe they are his favorite. These work equally well for dinner and are especially good with the addition of herbs, garlic or both. They do okay sitting for an hour or so but the longer they sit before being heated to serve, the more soggy they will become (this is not a bad thing but I don’t recommend trying to heat them longer than needed or they will become burnt, rather than crisp, on the outside and dry, rather than soft, in the middle). I find it best to make them in advance of your egg dish (or whatever they are accompanying) and keep them warm on your lowest heat setting on the stove; I keep mine on simmer and it keeps it just warm but not continuing to cook faster than I can prepare the rest on the meal.

PREP
USING 1 medium sized Yukon gold potato per person CUT INTO ¼” SLICES then each slice into ¼” julienne and then into ¼” cube.

PUT THESE CUBES into a saucepan of salted water and bring to just a boil.

REMOVE FROM HEAT AND STRAIN shaking out excess water.

THIS CAN BE DONE SEVERAL HOURS IN ADVANCE (if you have a doggie in the house, this is a healthy snack to offer them – no butter yet- just fresh, par-boiled potatoes. Ginger and Buddy know that I always save a few cubes for them to snack on before brunch).

COOK

MELT a good knob of butter (approx 1 TB per each two-three medium potatoes; more or less depending on the condition of your heart and your affinity for butter) over high heat until the butter stops bubbling. Add the potatoes and give the pan a shake to coat them all with a little of the butter. TURN DOWN THE HEAT TO MEDIUM.

COOK STIRRING EVERY ONCE AND AGAIN but leave them to sit alone undisturbed for several minutes at a time; this allows them to brown. You will eventually turn the heat down to low, depending on how hot your stove is. Once they have browned you want them to cook slowly so that the inside can soften nicely without burning the outside. On my stove, this occurs typically 5 minutes into the sauté and takes, on average, another 10 minutes or so to achieve the degree of doneness I desire. As I mentioned above, toward the end of the cooking, I turn my stove to simmer and let them finish off very slowly while I get the rest of my meal together; this buys me about 20 more minutes to round everything up. ALTERNATIVELY, you could serve right away or if still prepping other things, take them from the heat completely for an hour or so and reheat in a 400 degree oven or on the stove top on med high heat; again, the fresher served the better.

Mine are almost ready so I’m off to cook my eggs…

10 Legs in the Kitchen

~ Food. Dogs. Life!

Tag Archives: Brunch

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Instructions

Notes

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